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LFW SS19 Day 4

13-12-2018   


Paul Costelloe – Tata Naka – Jayne Pierson – FENGYI TAN…

Paul Costelloe’s SS19 collection is luxurious and elegant whilst still retaining its youth and freshness. It’s a quintessentially feminine line, which ranges from daywear to eveningwear with a few pieces that are more resort-style. Fabrics are beautiful; we see muted florals alongside jazzier graphic prints but the standout has to be the blue and white tartan that opened the show. Silhouettes are flirty and fun with cute little balloon dresses, halter-neck pieces, and slinkier strappy numbers walking the runway. Details include ruffled collars and sleeves, power shoulders, draped low-cut backs, and ornamental bows.

My favorite looks from this show include the off-the-shoulder blue tartan dress, the blue floral dress with a white bib collar, the ruffled purple floral chiffon dress, and the black and red chevron-style mini dress! (Wow, that’s a lot of favourites.) The white boots worn by every model are also gorgeous and need I even mention the stunning handbags? I desperately need the tartan bag that doubles up as a rucksack it’s beyond charming!

Words by Sophie Lau

 

Tata Naka

Tata Naja images by Chris Daw

Jayne Pierson’s shows are always highly concept-driven and for SS19, her collection “Because de Change” is an exploration of some of the contentious topics in our current social climate. Inspired by the idea of a contemporary woman who wants to express her inner self, we see form-fitting silhouettes, which are a celebration of the female form as well as layered pieces which reflect the layers under which we often bury our true selves. Materials range from lightweight tulles, meshes, and lace to heavier hand-painted leathers and woven fabrics. Colours this season include yellow, teal, and red but the predominant ones this season are more muted as digital prints take over much of the collection. At first glance, these look like renaissance paintings but the subject matter is more focused than that, pieces concern religious iconography and womanhood (whether that’s our bodies, our sexuality, or motherhood), meaning they tie into today’s conversations surrounding religious freedom, consent, and hate crimes.

An art-driven collection filled avant garde details (peep the full length gloves and tulle ruff), there’s still a sense of modern ready-to-wear throughout and what better way to start a conversation on discrimination and prejudice than to incorporate these ideas into our everyday wardrobe?

Words by Sophie Lau

Images Jean Luc Brouard

 

FENGYI TAN’s SS19 collection “Body in Emotion” was showcased in a collaborative effort with Hexagon Collective. The team, which consisted of architect Lin Tuo, sound artist Beibei Wang, and choreographer Gala Moody, created a beautiful performance piece that explores the blurred lines between the real and the virtual in our technology-dependent world. Abstract linear prints (which almost look like optical illusions) bring a sense of fluidity and three-dimensionality to the clothing; levels of transparency and varying textures convey the many facets of our identities both in real life and online. The colour palette mainly revolves around cool tones with pops of red and pink and silhouettes involve aspects from classic tailoring whilst incorporating contemporary influences – we see simple shirts and dresses updated with jarring panels of different colours and fabrics. Feminine, sporty, and elegant, this collection explores the juxtaposition of real bodies with virtual images without ever losing its appeal or wearability.

Words by Sophie Lau

Related articles:

LFW SS19 Ones To Watch

LFW SS19 Day 3

LFW SS19 Day 2




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