LFW SS19 Day 2

08-02-2025

Clio Peppiatt – Ada Zanditon – Cassy Gan – Jiri Kalfar – Lunyee – Zeynep Kartal…

Clio Peppiatt Spring Summer 2019 offering entitled ‘Female Trouble’ explored the concept of the surreal, inspired primarily by John Walter’s cult film, Female Trouble, in which overt glamour and anarchic decadence create ‘a new high low taste’. Olive green silk was at the core of the collection which was set in an eerie beauty salon; sharp fuchsia, daffodil yellow and violet clashed to further reflect Walter’s vision. Sharp tailoring was juxtaposed against full-bodied frills, and embellished images of the ‘lover’s eye’ (gifted by forbidden lovers in the 18th century were adorned onto garments sporadically but in the multiples. This show certainly did not disappoint in both ambience and execution.

Words by India Hunnikin

Ada Zanditon’s SS19 offering is a holographic wonderland of reflective pinks, purples, and silvers. Harnesses and bralets dominate this season’s collection (and to be honest, I want all of them, oh my) but the dresses are also beautiful in a more ornate and elegant way. Influences from the digital age can be seen throughout in graphic style lines and sculptural elements and although the pieces are undeniably contemporary, a sense of futurism is also employed. We see a rare combination of fetish and fun; it’s provocative club-wear for the hopeful daydreamer. The detail on every piece is also stunning- items have been hand-cut and each rivet is embellished with a crystal.

This presentation was also a collaboration with Astrid Kearney and the London School of Makeup. Each makeup look is bold whilst remaining feminine and conveys a sense of strength as well as a touch of fantasy.

Words and Images by Sophie Lau

Cassy Gan

Images by Chris Daw

Jiri Kalfar

Images by Chris Daw

The Lunyee show was an Insta-girls feast, with a volume of looks inspired by the 90s, goth culture and the naughties in equal measure. Coloured alien glasses were a common accessory on models, and chains too were draped around necks or looped onto belts. Asymmetric cuts and draped fluid silk took centre stage in the muted colour palette of mostly black, mushroom and white, with oversized tailoring too a recurrent feature. Silk slip dresses were layered over long sleeves and models hair was braided in sections at in the front in two plaits. Designed by a collective of creatives instead of a sole designer, it was ultimately an incredibly cool collection that I could easily see myself wearing, and most importantly, want to.

Words by India Hunnikin

Images by Chris Daw

This season Zeynep Kartal showed us an array of rich tulle dresses and wrapped silk bodices, all full-length and fluid – the ideal collection for the modern-day princess who still likes volume. Hair was slicked back and glossy, further adding to the luminousity radiating from the silken pieces as the models snaked down the runway. Pastel pink, dusty blues in multiple shades and delicate violet were the stamps of colour chosen this season, with silhouettes of bountiful fluffy gathered-tulle skirts another staple of the collection. Sheer textures were draped over arms or billowed out below waists to the floor, transforming the models into captivating flowers a la Rene Gruau.