Working with Manufacturers

You may be a designer with your first collection, or an inspired retailer who wants to make the leap into designing your own brand for your outlets. Whatever sector you are from, it is important to have an appreciation of the internal workings of a manufacturing unit so you can both work together successfully.



First of all, you will need an understanding of what types of production units are available:-

M&T

This is Make and Trim.

You, as the unit’s customer, need to supply fabric already cut into sizes and ratios to the unit along with size specification charts, pre pre-production notes, and a sealed sample i.e. a sample that is approved by both you and your unit as the standard for production.

At this stage we are assuming that all cost price negotiations and order confirmation (including delivery dates) are confirmed.



In addition to supplying the cut fabric ready for production you will also need to supply all trims such as buttons, shoulder pads, hangers, garment outer bags, button bags (for spare buttons), zips and labels.



With regards to labels there are various sets including centre back labels normally for branding, care labels for washing etc and size labels. In addition you may need to have price ticketing labels too.



Normally when working with M&T you will provide cut pieces that already have interlining attached e.g. the centre front of a blouse where button holes will be placed.

As a result of all this proprietary work before production commences it normally means that you have the cheapest on cost for production as you have provided the “cutting” of the order. It also means that you have total control of the order quantity.

The M&T unit will provide reject samples and production and hence you are controlling “cabbage”. Cabbage is the over-makes a unit may derive when commencing a CMT operation. When working on a M&T basis if you supply 50 cut pieces then you will expect to see 50 cut pieces made up ready for final inspection.



CMT

This is where the unit will Cut, Make and Trim the garment ready for final delivery.

Here you supply fabric with a graded nest of patterns leaving the emphasis on the unit to do a lay plan for cutting. In this scenario you need to agree the fabric costing of the garment i.e. how much fabric does the garment take over all sizes and ratios.

There appears to be some confusion about sizes and ratios. Imagine that your order is spread over sizes 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 and the ratio is 1:2:3:2:1.

This means that the order is for 1 size 10, 2 size 12s, 3 size 14s, 2 size 16s and 1 size 18. This makes a total of 9 garments in one ratio pack.



If you have sold this garment to 10 different outlets in ratio packs then your total order is for 10 outlets x by a 9 garment ratio pack = 90 garments in total

It is quite normal to allow for slippage. This is to account for unknowns such as damages in cloth, rejects in the manufacturing process etc.



In large orders for multiple retailers, where quantities may be 5,000 units, it is common to include 5% slippage. However, for your order you may wish to consider an extra ratio pack to ensure that you can make a full delivery to your customer.



Manufacturers

Normally a manufacturer includes the design and selling process and is more likely to supply collections direct to wholesalers and retailers.

However, sometimes manufacturers will take on CMT work and also work along side retailers and designers to optimise in house production capacity.

Once you have identified your production type the production process is basically the same as outlined below:-

1) Pre-production process

It is really important to have good close working relationships with your units and there has to be an element of trust between both parties. It is actually in the unit’s interests to make the production to the quality standard that has been mutually agreed by both parties and by the right delivery date.



To ensure that there are no hitches have a face to face meeting. Take the time to discuss your quality standards and levels together and document the notes. Ideally both parties should then sign a document so there is no misunderstanding.

Discuss the garment inside and out. What thread do you want to use; polyfill? How many stitches per inch”¦.normally 11 stitches per inch gives a good quality finish.

What interlining do you want to use? Is it correct for the weight of cloth? Do you want to self cover the shoulder pads in the same material of the garment?

What is the buttons spacing (measured mid-way between the button holes to the following middle of the buttonhole).



What hem finish do you want, double turned, pin hemmed, super locked? How do you want your garment finished? Hanging, flat packed? What labels do you require inside and out of your garments and exactly where do they go? How are the labels to be attached”¦.swift tagged? Do you want your production in ratio packs single sized? Is each garment then to have a single garment bag over each garment, with a garment outer bag containing a pack of 9 garments inside? Do not be afraid to ask for advice”¦.it is a steep learning curve and actually the manufacturing unit is generally an expert on cloth properties and getting the best out of the fabric for the garment.



What looks fantastic in a sketch and sample may not translate into bulk production and this is where the unit’s advice is invaluable.

The object is simple “GET IT RIGHT FIRST TIME”. The unit needs and wants dockets that are as hassle free as possible and hence you have to eliminate the risk of getting things wrong.





2) Size Chart

This is where you confirm measurements for the garment on the size range you require.

Normally there will be critical measurements i.e. on trousers the top hip and lower hip, front and back rise and there will also be non critical measurements.

All measurements normally have a + or – tolerance. The tolerance is the variation plus or minus you are prepared to accept on the specified size in bulk production.

You have to be realistic with your order. Whilst the dockets should be cut correctly to the graded nest of patterns during the manufacturing process it is easy to lose a few millimetres e.g. when attaching the leg to the rise and then finishing the hems.



3) Sealed Sample

This is so important. Once you have discussed all the production requirements you require the unit then needs to make a sample that becomes an agreed quality level for the rest of the production and hence the expression “Sealed”.

This sample which can be called red seal or green seal for “go” is the basis of ensuring both you and the unit are working as one. All the points, discussions and issues that were raised at the pre-production meeting will be reflected into this one sample.

This is the time that any problems that may occur in production can be identified and sorted out. It may be that you have to reject the first sealed sample”¦it’s not nice to do, I know!



The unit may be pressuring you to go ahead with the docket because the machinists need to be kept busy but this is where major problems will lie.

Do not rush into production but likewise, make the decisions on time, so you are not messing the production schedule of the unit around. You do not want to get a reputation for being indecisive and hence unprofessional!

When the sealed sample is ready for inspection by you make sure you act promptly and visit the factory ASAP. Look back on your pre-production notes and go through the garment thoroughly. Measure the garment and mark on your size chart the actual finished measurement and then compare to the actual measurement specified on the chart and the tolerance agreed.



Once you have individually gone through the garment discuss your findings with the unit. Go through the points and reach a conclusion together that is workable.

You may find that the bulk fabric is finished differently compared to the sample and now the garment does not hang right. This is not the fault of the unit and likewise, not your fault either!



Issues like this need to be resolved amicably and you both need to understand the dynamics of each others markets. You will be under pressure to deliver the right garment on time. The unit will be under pressure to start production to keep the machinists in work and ensure forthcoming planned production is not pushed back.

However, there is no point in delivering faulty garments to your end customer. If you are concerned that the sample is not 100% right then show it to your customer to make sure they will approve the bulk order. If your client does approve this modified sample then confirm it back in writing to your buyer so you cover yourself and again there is no confusion.



What ever happens do not go into production on a wing and a prayer hoping that it will be ok. If the bulk order is cancelled by your buyer then you will have stock that you can not sell immediately and this could give you serious cash flow problems.

Remember once you accept the sealed sample and the production is made to that approved sample then you have to pay the manufacturing unit for that order irrespective of if your buyer approves or rejects the bulk. The contract is between you and the stitching unit.



4) First off production/black seal

Once you have seen the bulk production which may be first off production or top of the lay production then it is common place to seal this garment too. This can be a black or gold seal which specifies that ALL of the bulk must correspond to this sample.

It can happen that there have been modifications in the bulk production compared to the original red or green sample and you are happy to approve these slight amendments as they do not detract from the garment in anyway what so ever.

Alternatively, the bulk production may be different for a whole host of reasons. Do not overreact and keep calm. Every problem has a solution and you need to find a conclusion that both of you can work to.



Other points to consider are:-

Remember when you have sealed garments attach all appropriate paper work such as pre-production notes, size charts and attach a seal that is signed and dated by you. Ideally get the unit to also sign the seal too. These seals can be purchased from retailers such as Morplan in Great Titchfield Street W1. Always have your own set of notes with you when you go for a meeting and try and keep a log of conversations that have occurred via the phone. When I was a selector at Marks and Spencer we used a Style File system. Each garment had its own style file which documented all components and sources of the garment. It was like a history of the garment from initial conversation re concept all the way through to delivery and also how well the item sold.

Ensure the decision maker both within your company and the unit is clearly identified. Do not confuse the unit by having more than one person making decisions. This is how mistakes can happen.



It is always a good idea to have an additional week or two added in to the lead time to ensure your production arrives on time for your buyer. With so many components involved in the manufacturing process it is common place that something will be late or arrive incorrectly to the order. By building in additional two weeks lead time it means that you will not be under pressure on delivery.



The down side to this of course is that you normally have to pay on delivery/completion for the finished stock and where do you store your order before delivery? This is where good working relationships are needed. Hopefully the unit will kindly hold the stock until delivery is made.



Manufacturing your order is a nerve racking process and when you first go into a unit it is easy to feel naive and in awe. Sometimes the units can be very direct and abrupt, but then so can the buyer, and you are in the middle trying to facilitate both parties to ensure your order is delivered correctly. This is just business and business rules apply.

Be professional; communicate effectively, be on time for appointments, be considerate, don’t exaggerate, deliver your side of the bargain”¦ if you say that the buttons will be arriving on Monday then they are late TELL the unit immediately”¦ components can often be delayed, it is a hazard of the business, so keep the unit informed.



Likewise, keep your buyer informed too. One piece of real heart-felt advice is”¦ when you have a difficult conversation to make e.g. explaining that production will be late to the buyer get it over and done with. Do not brood on it all day”¦ it just makes it worse and you can’t really concentrate on anything properly. Bite the bullet and get on with it!

Finally, enjoy it. Enjoy the learning process and work together. What can be more rewarding for both the designer/retailer and the unit than a repeat order and increasing orders season on season!



If you require any further advice please contact Jenny Holloway on 020 3132 2433 or email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.