The Breakdown of Technical Words

These words are commonly used in the fashion industry. This is the breakdown of exactly what they mean.

Abrasion

This is a type of fabric manipulation. This process is to make garments look worn or faded by scraping or rubbing the surface, causing abrasion when wet. Pumice stones are used most frequently.

Abrasion Resistance

This is the ability of a fibre or fabric to withstand surface wear and rubbing.

A-line skirt

A skirt that flares out at the waist in an A-line shape and is fitted at the waist. This is a very traditional 1950s looking style.

Applique

A surface decoration which is made up of a cut-out surface and then sewn or embroidered onto a larger piece of material. This is a type of fabric manipulation.

Back Coating

By back coating a fabric with sizing it gives it weight, strength and opacity. Again another type of fabric manipulation.

Back Drape

Attached either at the shoulder or the waist, a back drape flows over the back to floor length. A back drape is sometimes removable. This is a type of style.

Back yoke

A shaped piece which is either at the top of a skirt or the shoulder of garments.

Ballerina Neckline

A low neckline often seen on strapless or spaghetti strap dresses.

Basque waist / V-waist

Starting at or just below the natural waist line, this dropped waist dips in the centre to create a ‘V’ shape.  Traditionally used on wedding dresses.

Bateau Neck / Boat Neck

Running straight across at the front and back with a high, wide neckline which meets at the shoulders at the same dept, front and back.

Bleaching

This finishing process is used in industry to remove natural and artificial impurities from the yarn or fabric. It is also used by laundries to create faded jeans.  A type of fabric manipulation.

Beaded

When a garment is described as beaded this means it has beads embroidered into the design. The beading can be incorporated either at the time the lace is produced or re-embroidered afterwards.

Besom Pockets

A type of pocket, sewn inside a garment with access through a welted slit-type opening.

Bias Cut

This style of pattern cutting which cuts diagonally across the grain of a fabric to create garments that closely follow the body curves with a maximum stretch. The original bias cutting technique makes an angle of 45 degrees across the length and width of a fabric. This is a technique that can be hard to do whilst pattern cutting and sewing.

Blanket Stitch

This closely spaced stitch forms a line of tight loops at the edge and is often used in embroidery for decorative purposes.  This is a hand stitch.

Blend

This is a term used to describe a fabric made up or more than one fibre. In blended yarns, two or more different types of staple fibres are twisted or spun together. Typical examples are polyester and cotton.

Bolero Jacket

A style of jacket which is open at the front and waist length.

Boot-Cut

A style of trouser which are cut low on the hips and slightly flared from knee to ankle.

Body

A term used to describe the limpness or stiffness of a fabric. A full, rich and supple fabric is said to have a good body.

Box-pleated

A pleat made up of two folds of fabric and brought together.

Broomstick

A style of skirt or dress with many pleats made from a crinkled material.

Calico

A tightly woven cotton type fabric with a tight weave and an all-over print, such as a small floral pattern on a contrasting background colour. If is often used for dresses, aprons and quilts. Originating in India , it is one of the world’s oldest cottons and is coarse and light in weight. The patterns on calico aren’t generally colourfast as they are only printed on one side with discharge or resist printing. The fabric is often sized for crispness but it washes out easily so needs starch after each wash. This fabric is mainly used for your toile.

Camp Pockets

A type of pocket usually squared off and characterised by seaming, these pockets are sewn to the outside of the garment.

Capri Pants

Fairly straight-cut pants which are tapered to the mid-calf.

Cap Sleeve

The cap sleeve is a small, short sleeve which sits on the shoulder to either form a stiff cap or falls onto the arm to create a small amount of coverage.

Cardigan Jacket

A sweater or jacket which opens the full length of the centre front and is usually collarless.

Colourfastness

This term is used to describe a dyed fabric’s ability to resist fading from washing, exposure to light and other conditions.

Column skirt / straight skirt

A straight line skirt with no flare or fullness at either the waist or hemline. It is often referred to as a pencil skirt. Comfort Stretch

Convertible Collar

Sewn directly onto the neckline, this is a rolled collar which can be worn either open or closed.

Converter

A converter organises and manages the finishing of fabrics to a buyer’s specifications, such as the bleaching, dyeing and printing processes.

Cowl Neck

A neckline with a loosely draped piece of fabric that may be worn either as a hood of as a draped swag from shoulder to shoulder at the front or back neckline.

Crew Neck

A closely fitting neckline which is round with ribbed banding.

Crinkled

A term used to describe many short bends or ripples in a fabric.

Crocheted

A loose open knit which is create by looping thread with a hooked needle. It is commonly used for lightweight summer garments.

Cropped top / jacket

A garment which is cut just above the waistline.

Diamond Neck

Fastening at the front or back of the neckline, this refers to a diamond shaped cut-out.

Dolman Sleeve

A sleeve which is cut as an extension of a bodice, it has no socket for the shoulder so created a deep, wide armhole with a narrowed wrist. It is also commonly referred to as a batwing sleeve.

 

Double Breasted

A term usually used to describe jackets or coats which one half of the front has lapped over the other with a double row of buttons and a single row of buttonholes.

Double needle

A method of finishing a seam in which a row of stitches appears on either side of it.

Double Weave

A woven fabric construction made by interlacing two or more sets of warp yarns with two or more sets of filling yarns. The most common double weave fabrics are produced with a total of either four or five sets of yarns.

Draped Bodice

A style where an extra piece of material is draped over the bustline of a bodice.

Dropped Shoulders

A style where the shoulder or sleeve seam falls off the shoulder.

Dropped Waist / Low Waist

A waistline feature which is sewn below the body’s natural waistline.

Durability

The ability of a fabric to resist wear through continual use.

Eco Fashion

A relatively new term coined to refer to clothing manufactured using environmentally sound processes which comply with Free Trade regulations. Sometimes using recycled clothing and even recycled materials such as eco-fleeced produced from recycled plastic soda bottles to create garments; eco fashion is not necessarily made from organic fibres or healthy for people with chemical sensitivities.

Elasticity

The ability of a fibre or fabric to return to its original length, shape, or size immediately after the removal of stress.

Embossing

A process in which fabrics are engraved with the use of heated rollers under pressure to create a raised design on the fabric surface.

Embroidery

A technique of embellishing a fabric or garment by which coloured threads are sewn onto the item to create a pattern or design. This process can be done either by hand or by a machine.

Empire Bodice

A style of bodice which ends immediately below the bust and can be low cut or gathered.

Enzyme wash

A chemical process where proteins are used to speed up a process; commonly used in finishing denim.

Eyelet

A patterned cut out in a fabric around which stitching or embroidery can be applied to prevent fabric from unravelling.

Facing

The piece of fabric sewn to the collar front opening, cuffs or arms eye of a garment to give a finished look.

Face

The better looking or right side of the fabric.

Fibre

The basic entity, either natural or manufactured, which is twisted into yarns, and then used in the production of a fabric.

Findings

Items attached to the garment during manufacture such as a trims, buttons, hooks or embellishments.

Finish

A process applied to a fabric after it has been woven which can considerably change its look and feel, such as mercerization, dying, printing, napping, glazing or waterproofing.

Fishtail Train

A style of skirt which is fitted around the hips and flares out from the knee to the hemline.

Fitted Point Sleeve

A style of sleeve which is long and narrow and tapers to a point which rests against the back of the hand.

Five pocket

The classic style of denim jean which features two back patch pockets, two main pockets on the front and a coin pocket.

Flame Resistant

A term used to describe a fabric which has the ability to self-extinguish upon the removal of an external flame or that burns very slowly.

Flame Retardant

A chemical which is applied to a fabric or incorporated into the fibre at the time of production which significantly reduces the fabrics flammability.

Flap

A term to describe a pocket in which you have to lift a covering to access the opening.

Flat-Front trousers

Straight trousers which are often seamless and without pockets.

Form-Fitting / Slim Fit

A style of garment which is straight from waist to ankle except for a slight curve around the hip.

Forte of a garment

The strong aspect of the garment.

Fray

The term used to describe threads which come out from the fabric during handling.

Gaucho

Wide-legged trousers or a divided skirt which reaches to mid-calf and is usually worn with boots.

 

Geotextiles

Used in a variety of civil engineering applications, these manufactured fibre materials can be made into a variety of fabric constructions.

Grain (grainline)

Another term to describe the length-wise (weft yarn) or the cross-wise / horizontal (warp yarn) threads of the fabric.

Halter Top

A sleeveless top with a high choke or wrap neck that may also be backless.

Haute Couture

French for the literal translation of ‘high fashion’. Haute couture garments are unique one-offs which are often extravagant and expensive.

Hem Stitching

A line of stitching across the hem or border of a garment to create a decorative, open wave pattern.

Herringbone

A zigzag effect created by a variation on the twill weaves construction in which the twill is reversed or broken at regular intervals. It is frequently used for suits for both men and women.

Hip Pockets

Pockets sewn on the front of a garment at hip level.

Hollywood Waistband

A waistband which has a fully elasticated back and a side zipper or button closure.

Hook & Eye Closure

A fastening made up of a metal hook which catches over a bar or onto a loop.

Hydrophilic Fibres

A term used to describe fibres which absorb water easily, take longer to dry and require more ironing.

Hydrophobic Fibre

The opposite to hydrophilic fibres, i.e. Fibres that lack the ability to absorb water.

Interlining

Sewn either to the wrong side of the lining or the inner side of the outer shell fabric, this acts to insulate, pad or stiffen the fabric. It is mainly used to create extra warmth in coats and jackets.

Interfacing

A fabric used to reinforce or give shape to fabrics, this can be either stitched to the fashion fabric or some can be fused with the heat from an iron.

Interlock

The stitch variation of the rib stitch, which resembles two separate 1 x 1 ribbed fabrics that are interknitted. Plain (double knit) interlock stitch fabrics are thicker, heavier, and more stable than single knit constructions.

Jewel Neck

A high round neckline which rests at the base of the neck.

Light Weight

A term to describe a fabric which has an airy weave.

Lining

Used to cover the inside of a garment to create a finished look, a lining is generally made of a smooth, lustrous fabric.

Lock Stitch

Consisting of two threads that are interlocked at short interval, a lock stitch terry does not pull easily.

Loom

A machine used for weaving fabrics.

Mandarin Collar

Derived from the close fitting Asian collar, this is a short, stand up style.

Microfibers

Ultra-fine fibres and also the name given to the technology of developing these fibres. Fibres made using microfiber technology weigh less than 1.0 denier and have a superior hand with a gentle drape and great softness. The fabrics made from these extra-fine fibres provide a superior hand, a gentle drape, and incredible softness. Compared to other fibres, microfibers are two times finer than silk, three times finer than cotton, eight times finer than wool, and one hundred times finer than a human hair. Currently, four types are produced: acrylic, nylon, polyester and rayon.

Nap

A term used to describe the fuzzy, fur-like feel made when fibre ends extend from the basic fibre structure to the surface of the fabric. The nap can be on either or both sides of the fabric.

Natural Fibres

Examples of these natural materials are cotton, flax, hemp, alpaca, wool and silk. As few chemicals as possible are used in the production of these fabrics so as to be environmentally sound as possible.

Notch

A notch is a small cut in both the fabric and the pattern in order for you to line up the pattern pieces when sewing them together.

Stitch ripper

This tool is used to rip the stitches when you have gone wrong in sewing.

Toile

The toile is the calico practise run of the final garment.

Performance Fabrics

Specialty fabrics produced to provide functional qualities such as moisture management, UV protection, anti-microbial, thermo-regulation and wind/water resistance.

Pick

A weft yarn.

Plain Weave

The basic weave which alternates interlacing of warp and filling yarns. Any type of yarn made from any type of fibre can be manufactured into a plain weave fabric.

Placket

A reinforcement material in a split opening in a garment, but can also serves as the closure.

Princess Seams

Seams in the front or the back of a garment that create a form-fitting shape.

Puckered bodice

A scrunched look usually associated with tube tops.

Puff Sleeve

A sleeve which is of varying lengths, made by generous gathering around the arm hole with an overall full look.

Purl Stitch

A basic stitch used in weft knitting to produce knit fabrics which have the same appearance both sides. Often used in conjunction with jersey and rib stitches to create a knitted fabric design. Its uses include sweaters, specialised sportswear fabrics and bulky knitted fabrics.

Quilting

A method whereby a layer of down or fibrefill is placed between two layers of fabric, held together by stitching or sealing in a consistent, all over pattern.

Re-embroidered

The method of outlining a design with embroidery stitching.

Resiliency

The ability of a fabric to spring back to its original shape after being distorted in any way.

Ruche

A term used to describe gauze or crimped lace which is mainly used as a trim.

Scalloped Edge

A style of border which has continuous curve finished with bourdon stitching.

Scoop Neck / Round Neck

A round, low neckline.

Selvage or Selvedge

The thin compressed edge of a woven fabric which runs parallel to the warp yarns and prevents ravelling.

Shawl Collar

A style of one-piece collar which is turned down to make a continuous line around the back of the neck to the front.

Shrinkage

The way a fabric, yarn or fibre contracts when washed and dried. Natural fibres tend to shrink the product by 2 – 8%.

Silhouette

An outline or profile of a garment and usually shaded dark.

Smart Textiles

Textiles with the ability to react to environmental changes from thermal, magnetic, mechanical or chemical.

Spaghetti Strap

Named for its similarity to a strand of spaghetti, this is a thin tubular strap attached to a bodice.

Square Neck

A neckline with an open yoke which forms the shape of half a square.

Straight Legs

Trousers which are cut with an equal width from waist to ankle.

Sustainable Clothing

Clothing which reduces ill effects on the environment, supports and nourishes the earth and the people who are involved in its production processes. Principles of sustainable clothing are a combination of reuse and recycling, the use of organic fibres and Free Trade work conditions.

Sweetheart Neck

A neckline in the shape of the top of a heart, this is a graceful, open style.

Thread Count

The number of yarns per square inch in a woven fabric. The higher the count the finer the fabric.

Tie-Cinched Waist

A style where a tie is pulled tight around the waist.

Trim

A term to describe the trimming of rough edges below the seam line to give it a neat finish.

Turtleneck

A style of collar mainly used for sweaters which are high and close fitting.

V-Neck / V-Back

A style of necklines where a ‘V’ shape is cut midway down the top.

Warp

The term for the threads which run lengthwise in a fabric and are interwoven with the weft yarn.

Waterproof

A term for fabrics which has had their pores closed so won’t allow water or air to pass through.

Water Repellent

A term for fabrics has been finished to shed water by still lets air permeate.

Weft

The filling yarns which run perpendicular to the warp yarns in a woven fabric.

Width

The distance between the edges of a fabric usually measured when the fabric is rolled.

Wing Collar

A style of collar where fabric covers the seams of the bodice and doublets.

Yarn

A continuous strand of textile fibres made by a cluster of fibres being twisted together. The yarn is then used to create fabrics by knitting or weaving them.