1. You’ll need your hip measurement for this. Draw a line from A to B whose length is one half (1/2) your hip measurement plus 1.5 cm (3/5 inch)

2. The next line from A to C is the Centre Back seam – it needs to be the total length of the skirt (minus the waist band) you are planning to make, and it needs to be at right angles (90 degrees) from the horizontal line A to B.

3. Now we need to “square down” from point B the length of the skirt to point D. Again, this is a block edge and should be drawn thicker.

4. Now, for the basic “frame” of the skirt, it remains to connect points C and D, thus forming the Hem Line at the bottom of the skirt.

5. Measure from the Waist Line (from A to E and from B to F) the waist-to-hip measurement and connect E to F. This is the Hip Line.

6. Now measure from E along the Hip Line, one quarter of the Hip Measurement plus 1.5 cm (3/5 inch) and mark off the point G, then square down to the Hem Line at H. This is a block edge and is drawn with a thick line. This line separates the FRONT panel from the BACK panel.

7. Measure one quarter of the waist measurement along the Waist Line (from A along towards B) and add 4.25 cm (1 and 2/3 inches) – mark off this point (I) and measure 1.25 cm (1/2 inch) straight up and mark off point J. If your waist is more than 30 cm (12 inches) smaller than your hip measurement, you should add 5.25 cm (2 and 1/8 inches) rather than 4.25 cm (1 and 2/3 inches).

8. Now connect the points G and J and the points A and J.

9. Divide the line A to J into three equal pieces. Locate the first point K (one third the distance from A to J) and draw a line at right angles from the A to J line, 14 cm (5 and 1/2 inches) long to point L.

10. The darts are 2 cm wide (4/5 inch) at the top (hence 1 cm or 2/5 inch on each side), and are block edges and should be drawn in more thickly. If your waist is more than 30 cm (12 inches) smaller than your hips, then increase the dart width to 2.5 cm (1 inch) at the top.

11. Locate the point at which the second dart begins (point M) – 2/3 of the way between A and J, and draw a new line at right angles to the line linking A to J, this one 12.5 cm (4 and 7/8 inches) long to point N.

12. Finish the second dart (2 cm or 4/5 inch wide at the top, 12.5 cm or 4 and 7/8 inches long). If your waist is more than 30 cm (12 inches) smaller than your hips, then increase the dart width to 2.5 cm (1 inch) at the top.

13. Finish the waist line by curving downwards slightly between A and K, K and M and M and J.

14. Connect the points G and J with an outward curve that deviates 0.5 cm (1/5 inch) at maximum from the straight construction line between G and J.

15. Measure one quarter of the waist measurement from B towards A and add 2.25 cm (7/8 inch), mark the point (P) and draw a construction line straight upwards 1.25 cm (1/2 inch) and mark the point Q. If your waist is more than 30 cm (12 inches) smaller than your hips, then add 2.75 cm (1 and 1/8 inches) rather than 2.25 cm (7/8 inch).

16. Connect the points G and Q and the points B and Q with straight construction lines.

17. Measure one third of the distance from point Q towards point B and mark the point (R), then draw a line at right angles downwards from the line connecting Q and B. The length of the this construction line is 10 cm (4 inches).

18. Draw in the dart with a width of 2 cm (4/5 inch) at the top (1cm or 2/5 inch on either side of the point R) and the point S 10cm (4 inches) down. The dart lines are block edges and should be drawn in thickly. If your waist is more than 30 cm (12 inches) smaller than your hips, then increase the dart width to 2.5 cm (1 inch) at the top.

19. Connect the points G and Q with a curved line that deviates a maximum of 0.5 cm (1/5 inch) from the straight construction line linking G to Q.

20. Finish the waist line by bending the line between Q and R and between R and B downwards slightly and then back up.

21. Finally, you would normally separate the two panels.

22. Add 1 cm seam allowance to final pattern.