In work quality checks at a CMT/Manufacturing Unit

So you have a wonderful concept on paper. You have managed to secure a good size docket (order with a manufacturer and now the garments are in production. You are hoping to see the garments look like soldiers off a production line…Actually it’s not that straight forward. Is it ever?

Sourcing the right manufacturer is one of the hardest roles for a designer today. Invariably you feel “uncomfortable” as you know that the unit is the relative expert but here you need to work professionally and ensure that your systems are in place.



When there is a sizeable order that is put into work with a garment manufacturer the production process can still go wrong even though you have a formalised red/green sealing process. Some of the main problems experienced in production orders are:

Ӣ when bulk fabric is laid on the cutting table there are a host of problems that may result with the fabric such as

Ӣ it is off grain,

Ӣ there are a high ratio of flaws in the fabric,

Ӣ shading between dye lots

Ӣ inconsistent print run (shading)



Ӣ even though seam allowances may have been expressed machinists are only human and some may take more fabric in during the side seams than others resulting in the incorrect fit.



”¢ Incorrect positioning of dart markers on the pattern again resulting in incorrect fit 



Ӣ Poor cutting or tight cutting. There are instances whereby a unit may try and squeeze patterns together to gain cabbage (overmakes) that are then sold on after the order has been delivered Рnormally to wholesale merchants and you find your precious garments hanging at the local market!



Ӣ Blunt needs causing needle damage on delicate cloths.



Ӣ Incorrect interlining on collars and cuffs causing delamination (bubbling).



There are literally a whole host of potential problems that would not have been picked up at the red/green sampling stage.



To eleviate these potential problems you need again to set up a system that can prevent a major order cancellation by your buyer. Organise an in-work check meeting with your garment manufacturer where you can inspect and thoroughly review the first of the lay samples and/or garments in work.



Inspect the garments down the production line that the machinists are currently working on to ensure that garments are being made consistently. Machines must be clean and obviously oil free. Talk to the factory representative who is responsible for quality control and talk through any concerns that you have. More importantly talk to the machinists too and make them feel your presence (in a positive way) so they have a good working relationship with you. This way machinists try a little harder when they know it’s your order going down the line next time.



Revisit the red/green seal (the approved sample) to ensure that garments coming off the line are in accordance, or at least in tolerance to, your agreed sample for production. By inspecting early you will ensure that if there are any problems they can be rectified immediately and the bulk production will correspond to the sample.



A black or gold seal is the standard that you are happy with for the rest of the order to equate to. If a problem has been detected and it can not be rectified e.g. centre back length coming short to spec, you may have to agree to the new length providing that your buyer is happy with the revised length. If the buyer is not happy then it’s time to start negotiating and find out where it all went wrong, why and how compensation can be agreed for both parties.



You could write books about production planning and the pitfalls and positives of manufacturing. The simple fact is there is no substitute for experience but you can make the process as painfree as possible by following some simple guidelines.



Just one final comment. Remember good units are VERY hard to find. Production is very much a two way process between the designer and the manufacturing unit. Work together to grow together. As with life you only get out what you put in. Try and get it right first time but always listen to the voice of experience and advise. Manufacturers do not want dockets that give them grief they are just trying to earn a living like the rest of us!