A general method for a self neatening cuff is:

• Place the two pieces of cuff together with the right sides facing each other.
• Pin onto the fitting lines of the cuff.
• Machine stitch along the fitting line starting and finishing at exactly the same point.
• Remove pins and press.
• Turn the cuffs through to the right side easing out the points on the corners.
• Bring the seam up onto the fold and machine stitch into position.

PREPARATION OF THE SLEEVE

• Join the sleeve seams and neaten
• Make an opening at the marked position; this could be a faced or continuous strip opening.
• Gather the edge

ATTACHING THE CUFF

• Prepare the cuff using the method previously mentioned.
• With the right side of the cuff against the right side of the sleeve place the square end in line with the back edge of the opening.
• Mark on the extension of the over lap with a pin
• Fold back the raw edges of the underside of the cuff towards the worker
• Matching the notches, pin on the right side of the cuff to the sleeve arranging the gathers evenly
•  Machine stitch
• Press and trim seam allowance to 1.2cm
• Turn the cuff up and over towards the wrong side and press the cuff upwards
• Turn the sleeve through to the wring side
• Turn under raw edges of the cuff to the fitting line and bring to the fold so that the raw edges are enclosed
• Pin bringing the folded edges of the extension together
•  Machine stitch the fold and slip stitch the edges of the extension
• Remove the pins and press
•  To fasten the cuff attach a button and machine stitch a buttonhole
• Press

TO ATTACH A CUFF WITH A CROSSWAY STRIP

• Make up the cuff as previously directed
• Place the underside of the cuff to the right side of the garment
•  Bring edges to meet the centre line of the sleeve
• Match the notches and pin the cuff into position
• Cut a crossway strip of 2.5cm wide and the length of the cuff plus 1.25cm
• Place the right sides of the crossway strips over the cuff and garment placing the raw edges 0.5cm above the fitting line.
• Pin into position so that the join lines are on top of the sleeve seam.
• Join the strip on the straight grain
• Machine stitch through the fitting line
• Press
• Turn the cuff upwards away from the sleeve and strip down onto the wrong side of the sleeve.
• The crossway strips now form a narrow facing
• Turn under 0.6cm along the raw edge of the cross way strip
• Pin flat onto the sleeve
•  Machine stitch around the pinned edge
• Press and fold the cuff back into position