Crossway Strips and Bias Binding

These are narrow strips of fabric cut at an angle of 45 degrees to the warp and weft thread another word for this is bias binding.

The reason cross way strips are cut at 45 degrees is due to the elasticity needed to manipulate around a curved edge. These are used for neatening a seam or a hem edge, curved raw edge, armholes or necklines.

	To cut bias binding follow these simple steps. This can be done using your 45 degree angle line on your pattern master: Lay the 45 degree angle line along the straight grain of the fabric. Use your tailors chalk to draw along the edge of your pattern master. Choose your width of your binding. This is usually around 2cm wide. Line your pattern master along your drawn line and repeat this. Cut along the crossway lines.
	Follow these simple steps on how to join the cross ways strips: Always join the cross way strips on the straight grain so all the seams fall in the same direction. Place strips in line right side up with the straight cut ends. Turn one strip over the other with the straight ends together. Allow a point of fabric to project over one edge. Give a seam allowance of 0.6cm. Pin the edge together. Machine sew securing each end.
	Binding can be used as a decorative feature as well as for neatening seams and raw edges. The usual width for the binding is 0.6-1cm but this should be as narrow as possible on very fine fabrics. Prepare cross way strips cut to four times finished width of binding.  Join one or more strips for the required length if necessary. There are binding machines that can be used where the width of the fabric is placed in and machine folded. Alternatively press the strip half way, and then fold the two edges in on each other. Fold and pin the pressed bias binding edging along the edge where the binding will be placed. Top stitch along the edge.

BINDING CURVED EDGES

If you follow the general method of binding the resulting edge should be flat, smooth and unpuckered at the inner curves such as armholes and neck lines. If the edge of the concave of the curve is shorter than the stitching line for the binding, slightly stretch the folded edge before the final sewing.