Trend Review AW12/13 – Moda Lisboa – Fashion Week Portugal
The Fashion Week brings out a great range of media and in particular young bloggers with a passion for all things fashion, dressed to the nines and clearly supporting the Portuguese economy in a wild array of outfits.
These outfits are sometimes co-ordinated with their blogger friends for maximum ‘street styled’ effect! I obviously travel with a suitcase and do not arrange my outfits quite so in advance….
The fashion week is also well known for the rather fabulous parties – there are usually two or three a night and most end in utter debauchery and blurred memories of leaving classy clubs and heading underground – the best sort of fashion nights!
Having visited Moda Lisboa previously it was great to see the development of collections from Spring Summer to Autumn Winter which I feel always gives designers a chance to show a more mature collection – with summer consisting of floating fabrics and soft colours it’s great to see really well worked design features such as pleats and structure that appear more skilful.
Big trends to watch for this Autumn Winter…
Designers across the board have been adding sporty touches to their collections while others have all out designed urban, street wear.
Designers such as Vitor, White Tent, Ricardo Andrez and Ricardo Dourado’s collections were all very much urban based. Vitor’s design chose to incorporate hand knit with messy frays and splattered in musical references and band badges adding a pop-culture edge to the jersey sport fabrics.
Vitor – ModaLisboa
Ricardo Andres and Danielle Dinis chose a straight forward ‘sport’ approach with active fabrics, high shine, Lycra and flashes of colour many designs featuring drawstrings and visible functioning pockets.
Ricardo Dourado’s collection featured urban look outwear which used great, bling-tastic, visible zips hung with spangling peace signs adding to wide airy lapels and hoods – another nod to pop-culture.
Ricardo Dourado & Danielle Dinis – Moda Lisboa
Other designers took the sportswear trend into their collection using much subtler means.
Piotr Drzal layered quilted jumpers with elasticised waists over and otherwise conservative collection of men’s tailoring which kept the collection young and fresh. Pedro Pedro created a similar effect with baggy outerwear in the royal blue and burnt orange that will be so popular this coming season.
Piotr Drzal & Pedro Pedro – Moda Lisboa
Alexandra Moura added a twist to severe tailoring with wide lapels and draped wet look fabrics and leather which created a very sophisticated urban look that can be worn throughout the season.
Alexandra Moura – Moda Lisboa
Femme Fatale – Vamp
The femme fatale trend, also known as ‘S’wit S’woo’ or ‘Hello Siren!’ is a wonderful trend following on from recent years androgynous themes. Taking inspiration from 1940’s vintage and making power dressing sexy. Suit sets have been nipped in at the waist, vamped up with blood red lips. Severe, yet feminine structured shoulders added for a 1980’s twist. This has created a new ‘woman’. Powerful, seductive and gorgeous.
This has owned the runway this season and will look incredible on the street contrasting strongly with the young, sport looks also shown. One of the collections showing this look perhaps best was the collection by Miguel Vieira whose femme wears opulent fur, low slashed V neck and a cinched waist with skirts dropping to the knee and below to remain classy despite sheer panels, thigh high splits and the occasional flash of cleavage. Elbow length leather gloves and caped layers keep the collection firmly in the correct season.
Miguel Vieira – Moda Lisboa
Alexandra Moura’s femme, along with Ricardo Preto and Filipe Faisca still use androgynous themes throughout tailoring with the cheeky feminine additions of chiffon, lace and once again, form fitting dresses that accentuate a waist. Accessorised with a range of items including black skull caps (Alexandra Moura), black rubber gloves and rain shawls (Filipe Faisca) the collections were consistently elegant and refined – creating a new age of women.
Alexandra Moura, Ricardo Preto & Filipe Faisca
Although we find it hard to believe that the Portuguese winter could be cold, fur was seen throughout collections as a refined addition. Fox fur and shaggy wool added a majestic edge to womens wear collections. The collection by Luis Buchinho combined fur gillets with ultra short shorts and patriotic print. The print, which deserves notice, was clearly based around the famously tiled streets of Lisbon and although this collection wasn’t a ‘street’ collection in some way the print connected the garments to urban Lisbon more than any other!
Ricardo Preto used a high collared ruff of white fur and Miguel Vieira trimmed wide caped cuffs of women’s wear with the same in Black.
Ricardo Preto and Miguel Vieira – Moda Lisboa
Menswear featured the fox collars strongly throughout the collections – Nuno Gama with his gorgeous, circus, gypsy colour palette and Miguel Vieira’s refined, almost Victorian inspired menswear. Moving the ‘fur’ look onwards Say My Name used fluffy wool to create a furry, fluffy texture which looked fibrous and space age with the metal architectural accessories.
Nuno Gama and Miguel Vieira – Moda Lisboa
Thigh High Splits
Another vampy feature that was used strongly in collections was the split maxi dress. Gone are the billowing fabrics of spring summer and in its place are chic, single layer maxi skirts, split to the thigh. This was shown by Luis Buchinho in his stunning block colour and cobble inspired prints in startling shades of royal blue and navy. It was also employed by Dino Alves in black and white acid wash and various brighter prints, plus in the collection by Os Burgueses with defined military cool.
Luis Buchinho, Dino Alves and Os Burgueses – Moda Lisboa
Miguel Vieira, Nuno Balthazar and Alexandra Moura also combined this strong feature into their feminine, sophisticated collections.
Miguel Vieira, Nuno Baltazar and Alexandra Moura – Moda Lisboa
Using metallic fabrics has been a regular feature on the world wide runways recently but a new addition to this trend is using metals to create belts and architectural accessories in shiny, plain silver, copper and gold tones. Two designers stood out this season for their use of bold, innovative metal accessories. The first was Valentim Quaresma who created incredible structured head wear as an external, gleaming skeleton with clear warrior inspiration in the sharp, glinting points and coils of metal. Although the head wear was rather extreme Valentim Quaresma has created some more reserved and interested jewellery pieces made mainly from reclaimed and vintage parts including paper clips.
Valentim Quaresma – Moda Lisboa
Say My Name was another collection featuring strong, metal structures. Harnesses with sharp, pointed shoulders sat as breast and shoulder plates over grey, shimmering chain-mail like knit to add to the warrior theme. Arm pieces from below the shoulder to just below the elbow kept arms held tensely and highlighted the copper accessories.
Say My Name – Moda Lisboa
Ricardo Preto featured a thin strip of metal as a belt with an elegant black suit to add a touch of grit otherwise absent. Nuno Baltazar has crafted metal belts in softer shapes and embellished slightly to rebel against this intense look.
Nuno Baltazar and Ricardo Preto – Moda Lisboa
Other great examples of metals being used as accessories were the blinging, exposed zips of Os Burgueses and the spangling peace symbols/Mercedes badges of Ricardo Dourado.
Ricardo Dourado and Os Burgueses – Moda Lisboa
Metallics featured throughout collections still in coated leather, shimmering fabric and knitwear that took on new, glamorous heights. Piotr Drzal’s conservative collection of menswear with its Quaker styling was spiced up by the shimmering fabrics used in sections while both Alexandra Moura and Filipe Faisca used patent and metallic fabrics to glamorise their smouldering femme looks. Miguel Vieira’s femme exhibited opulent shining silver to elevate even further the image of the winter aristocracy.
Piotr Drzal, Alexandra Moura, Filipe Faisca and Miguel Vieira – Moda Lisboa
Deep V necks and Wide Lapels
While smart casual featured strongly throughout collections it was hard to not notice the return of the ‘wide lapels’ in womens wear as well as deep plunging necklines. In the collections that featured the sports themes the wide lapels were translated into wide open hoods with draped layers. This was seen throughout the urban collections of White Tent and Lidija Kolovrat.
White Tent and Lidijia Kolovrat – Moda Lisboa
Ricardo Preto, Miguel Vieira and Alexandra Moura used the more classic suited looks that distinctly rang of 70’s lapels and 80’s power dressing with a hint of aristocrat slut that stemmed from the plunging necklines. These were also favoured by the likes of Pedro Pedro.
Ricardo Preto, Miguel Vieira, Alexandra Moura and Pedro Pedro
Shoulders went through a transformation this season with the introduction of rounded shoulders. Sometimes structured, this creates a softer look than the sharp padded shoulders of previous collections but still enables outfits to have a strong, exciting silhouette. Main collections developing this looks included the geek chic looks of Katty Xiomara and Maria Gambina, both collections featuring the popular royal blue tone.
Katty Xiomara and Maria Gambina – Moda Lisboa
Designers Dino Alves and Nuno Balthazar used tailoring techniques to tuck the shoulders to create less ostentatious shapes and continue the collections with class. Alexandra Moura and Pedro Pedro showed examples of wide softer rounded, slouching shoulders in outwear for both women and men.
Dino Alves and Nuno Baltazar – Moda Lisboa
Leather and Leather Look
Leather panels, trousers and skirts were seen throughout so many designer shows either hammering home the urban luxury look or adding to the opulence of the new Lisboa femme. The elbow length leather gloves were layered over leather jackets and belted again with leather. Designers that chose to use leather/leather-look fabrics included Ricardo Preto, Maria Gambina, Miguel Vieira, Filipe Faisca and Alexandra Moura.
Ricardo Preto, Maria Gambina, Miguel Vieira, Filipe Faisca and Alexandra Moura – ModaLisboa
Colour Trends: Monochrome, Royal Blue and Burnt Orange
Royal Blue made an appearance in a large number of collections – being English it is easy to assume that this is something to do with the Olympics, jubilee and patriotism. Designers throughout the week showed items in the same gorgeous colour. White Tent and Lidija Kolovrat used the colour throughout loose fitting urban wear while Luis Buchinho contrasted his prints of cobbled floors and tiles with flashes of draped royal blue in block sections.
White Tent, Lidijia Kolovrat and Luis Buchinho – Moda Lisboa
Maria Gambina and Katty Xiomara’s collections bore a few similarities including the term time themes. Gambina opting for the school boy ‘jock’ and Xiomara the bookish ‘geek’. Another similarity was the use of piercing royal blue in numerable looks.
Maria Gambina and Katty Xiomara – Moda Lisboa
Pedro Pedro also hugely favoured this colour throughout the collection also working the tone into leather accessories and prints. In garments themselves the smart, yet wearable looks from Pedro Pedro were contrasted by the similar use by Ricardo Dourado whose collection was far more edgy and urban.
Pedro Pedro and Ricardo Dourado – ModaLisboa
Mean while the men were also toting this colour! Royal blue chinos were featured in the collections of Nuno Gama and Piotr Drzal.
Nuno Gama and Piotr Drzal – Moda Lisboa
Rusty, orange tones took to the catwalk in many of the menswear sections. Nuno Balthazar’s women’s tailoring in rust, orange and coral showed simply the ease that colours can be worn in winter while Pedro Pedro used the similar tones in outerwear pieces.
Nuno Baltazar and Pedro Pedro – Moda Lisboa
Somewhat traditional for the colder seasons was the use of monochrome. Black, grey and white were thrust together throughout sophisticated collections of designers such as Luis Buchinho who used the flashes of royal blue, navy blue and prints for relief.
Luis Buchinho – Moda Lisboa
Dino Alves use of black and white acid wash was also offset by the use of red piping and softened with grey outerwear. Os Burgueses used black and white again, the crisp white shirts tainted with the stark black collars and panels, later using grey and burnt red in another example of colour adding to the monochrome palette.
Dino Alves and Os Burgueses – Moda Lisboa
Alexandra Moura employed a similar technique with the black and white mixture in tailoring, although the collection was predominantly black. Filipe Faisca’s black on white approach was brutal utilizing natural, leaf skeleton prints to sully the fresh white outfits.
Alexandra Moura – ModaLisboa
Acid wash, dip and tie dye
Fabric washes are being used more and more throughout collections and hair trends are following suit. Filipe Faisca even used the funky ‘dip dye’ trend on his models legs, painted them red from the calf down!
Filipe Faisca Dip Dye Feet
Most notably used on the high street in denim, Marques Almeida created a collection almost completely in this media. Frayed edges of black denim were bleached yellow and white denim was dip dyed grey.
Marques Almedia – Moda Lisboa
Luis Buchinho smeared black and white together in a funky tie dye with the printed tiles laid across the effect to add a dimension of messiness to the collection. Dino Alves’ collection was also noteworthy for the use of severely acid washed fabrics in black and white which clashed fabulously with prints. Although Danielle Dinis didn’t quite use dip dyed or washed fabrics the messy, hand weaved fabrics in clashing colours created a similar effect.
Luis Buchinho and Danielle Dinis – Moda Lisboa
Another massive high street fabric trend stemming from the catwalk is the use of Galaxy and Cosmos prints, made popular recently by Christopher Kane…. and then Black Milk. Designers at Moda Lisboa used this effect sparingly but developed galaxy prints and colours were seen. For example Lidija Kolovrat used galaxy coloured, swirling graphic prints in a shirt and a dress which both looked superb on the catwalk while Ricardo Dourado created a shirt and jacket in metallic swirling prints that told of cosmos inspirations as did out of focus prints by Pedro Pedro.
Lidijia Kolovrat, Ricardo Dourado and Pedro Pedro – Moda Lisboa
The world of fashion is expanding at an alarming rate. The turnaround from catwalk to the highstreet is insanely fast with catwalk trends becoming available cheaply almost instantly after the trends emerge. This seems to split the fashion weeks into two categories: the easily commercial and looks that are harder to achieve. From Moda Lisboa there are three main looks emerging:
The Siren: Chic tailoring, dazzling detail and a hint of aristocracy.
Sport and Street: Clinical lines, minimal detail and a near impossible balance of urban and sophistication.
Shabby Chic: Frayed edges, clashing prints and a clumpier silhouette.
Which one will develop the most in the coming season we will soon see. In the mean time, find your trend and work it!!