Tension

It is important when sewing to check the tension is correct and you are using a suitable length of stitch and size of needle.

Thick and heavy fabrics : 10 stitches to 2.5cm 16 needle

Medium weight fabrics: 12 stitches to 2.5cm 14 needle

Thin lightweight fabrics: 14 stitches to 2.5cm 11 needle

When using very slippery fabrics such as organza and chiffon it is advisable to use a slightly loose tension and a large stitch but with a fine needle. These fabrics pass through the machine more easily if the seam line is tacked through onto tissue paper which is torn away after machining.

To achieve the correct tension, the stitch should appear the same from both sides and the thread should be neither loose nor tight. Incorrect tension will appear when the top tension is slack under the other.

There are many common faults that appear when sewing for example, persistent incorrect tension; this is usually caused by incorrect threading of the machine or position of the spool. Stitches that are missed are usually caused by a blunt or incorrectly placed needle. Thread breaking is usually caused by the needle being too fine for the fabric or too coarse, it could also have been wrongly inserted or just of poor quality. Puckered fabric is caused by a needle too large or blunt.

Correct tension

Top tension too loose

Top tension too tight