Seams

There are many different types of seams, some more complicated than others. You need to make sure you are choosing the right type of seam for the choice of fabric and its purpose.

SEAM ALLOWANCE

• Seam allowance is normally 1cm wide.
• This is added onto the pattern when pattern cutting.
• This is the amount of fabric between the seam you will be sewing and the raw edge.
• It is advised that you over lock the raw edge before sewing the seam.
• This normally takes up 0.5cm of your seam allowance.
• In certain designs 2cm seam allowance is needed.
• In most cases the seam allowance can be trimmed down to avoid bulkiness.

SEWING A BASIC SEAM

• This basic seam is the seam you are most likely to use.
• Make sure the two layers align at the raw edges.
• Pin the layers together horizontally.
• Place the layers under the sewing machine feet at the desired seam allowance.
• If you wish you can mark the sewing line with chalk.
• Make sure you are sewing in a straight line.
• Make sure the settings on the machine are for a basic plain seam with the desired stitch length.
• Let the machine pull the fabric through, do not pull or push it.
• If the fabric is slippery or hard to sew, tack this first.

PRESSING SEAM ALLOWANCE

• Pressing the seam is very important at each stage in sewing to make a professional looking garment.
• First press the seam flat along the line of stitching.
• Then open the seam allowance and press from the wrong side.
• The edge of the seam allowance needs to have been finished before this stage.
• If needed steam the seam and make sure you are using the right temperature for the fabric.

TOP STITCHING

• Top stitching is used a lot in tailoring.
• You can use a contrasting thread to make this a design feature such as on jeans.
• Simply press the over locked seam open and from the right side, top stitch close to the seam on one or both sides making sure you are stitching through the allowance underneath.
• Make sure this stitch line is straight as this is a very visible stitch line.

SELF BOUND SEAM

• This seam is useful for lightweight fabrics sewn on the straight seam.
• Make a plain seam and press open the seam allowance as you would normally.
• Press on side of the seam allowance up and trim the other side down as small as possible.
• Fold over the wider seam allowance and press it in half.
• Fold the edge over to meet the original line of stitching, sew along the folded edge as close to the fold as possible.
• Make sure the stitching is straight and does not go over the original line of stitching.

FRENCH SEAM

• This seam is the perfect seam for sheer fabrics.
• Used commonly on underwear, this seam provides a very professional finish.
• The seam is sewn wrong sides together which can be a bit confusing some times.
• Practice the seam before you sew your final garment as it is very important to get this right.
• Sew a plain seam so that the wrong sides are together.
• Press the seam flat as you would normally.
• Trim the seam allowance on both sides down to 3mm.
• Press the seam allowance to one side, fold the piece right sides together and enclose the seam allowance.
• Press the seam flat.
• Sew along the actual seam line which should be 5mm from the fold.

MOCK FRENCH SEAM

• This looks very similar to a French seam but is easier to sew and works better on a curved seam.
• Make a plain seam and press open as you would normally.
• Then fold the seam allowance of one side into the centre so that the raw edge is against the stitching line and then press this flat.
• Fold the other seam allowance into the centre and press.
• Fold the right sides together and press with folded seam allowance edges together.
• Sew the folded seam allowance together very close to the fold.

FLAT FELL SEAM

This seam is very strong and is usually used on hard wear garments.

• Sew a plain seam with the wrong sides together.
• Press open like you normally would.
• Trim one of the seam allowances to 3mm.
• Press the trimmed seam allowance up.
• Press the raw edge of the other seam allowance over to meet the raw edge of the trimmed seam allowance.
• Fold the whole lot over so that the raw edges are enclosed and pressed flat.
• Finally top stitch and press.

SEWING A CURVED SEAM

Curved seams are sewn in the same way as a plain seam; there are just a few things to consider when sewing a curved seam:

• Make sure the pattern is notched well and that you have matched these notches in place before sewing.
• Use a short stitch length and go slowly and make small adjustments as the fabric moves around.
• Do not force or pull the fabric at any stage, let the machine move the fabric along.
• Make sure you keep the seam allowance exact as you sew.

BIAS SEAM

• Working on bias cut fabrics can be hard and requires some care.
• Long seams on skirts and dresses will continue to stretch for some time.
• In cases such as these it is advised to pre stretch before sewing.
• When joining a bias edge and a straight edge, always place the bias edge on top.
• There are three main techniques:
• Sewing the seam as normal letting the machine pull the fabric through as normal.
• Leave the garment to hang for 24 hours before sewing. The second technique is to stretch the bias before sewing along the direction of the bias.
• The third is to stretch the seam as you go.
• Sew without tacking or pinning if you can.
• Sew the seam as you would sew a normal sea

TURNING A CORNER WHEN MACHINE SEWING

• Sewing a corner isn’t hard but it is important to get this right.
• Simply mark the lines in which you will be sewing.
• Make sure the lines are straight and the angle is right. Sew the corner shape with a normal stitch and the desired seam allowance.
• At the corner point, leave the needle in the fabric, lift the foot and pivot the fabric to sew in the next direction. Once you have finished sewing the corner, finish the ends and before turning through to the right side, snip the corner as close to the stitching without cutting the stitching.
• This will allow you get a really neat corner and fold the seam through easier.
• Always press the seam after turning through.

GLUED HEM

• Hems on leather, suede or latex can be machine sewn but this is very hard and is very noticeable.
• Glued hem is the best option for these fabrics.
• Use the glue sparingly and follow the manufacturer instructions.
• Mark the line where you will be folding in a straight line and run a line of glue along this line.
• Fold over the hem and use clips to fold the hem down until dry.
• For a curved seam notch the hem allowance first.

ROLLED HEM

• Soft or very fine fabrics are difficult to work with so a rolled hem is a good option under these circumstances.
• Pin the edge of the fabric to strips of tissue paper. Machine sew 1cm from the edge, using a short stitch length.
• Tear off the tissue along the side of the stitch line, remove the rest off the tissue and trim the fabric close to the stitching.
• Start rolling the hem between your fingers to cover the machine stitch line.
• Slip stitch along the roll and press if required.

CORNER HEM

• Before sewing this hem make sure the raw edges are finished using the over locker.
• Press under the seam allowance on both of the edges.
• Open out the pressed seam allowance and fold the corner over using the crossing points.
• Unfold the corner and snip off, fold the hem edges over again and machine sew along the hem line.
• Press the corner flat.

FACED HEM

Facing a hem provides a hard wearing hem for any garment.

• Cut the facing the same shape as the hem line.
• Choose your depth of facing depending on the garment.
• Sew the facing to the hem with a 1cm seam allowance, trim the seam allowance back.
• Press the seam allowance towards the facing; sew the seam allowance to the facing 3mm from the first line of stitching.
• Turn the facing to the inside of the garment, press then slip stitch the hem line.

CURVED HEM

• For curve hems follow this method:
• Because of the nature of a curved hem the fabric will not fray as most of the hem will be cut on the bias.
• Thread trace the hem line along the seam allowance line.
• You can do this by hand or by machine ensuring you use a large stitch length if by machine.
• Pull up the ease stitches and fold the hem up easing the stitching to fit and press.
• Sew the hem by machine and then remove the thread tracing.