LFWMen’s Jan 2019 – Daniel w. Fletcher Celebrates the Textiles Heritage of the North
Daniel w. Fletcher’s AW19 collection celebrates the rich history of Northern Britain’s textile and manufacturing industry. The area’s influence permeates through the use of fine fabrics from British mills, super-fine merino wools in Prince of Wales check, houndstooth for tailoring and double-faced scarves made at Yorkshire’s historic Abraham Moon & Sons mill.
It was on research trips to the area, while preparing for his entry into the 2019 International Woolmark Prize, that Fletcher was reminded of the specialist industry that continues to thrive in Britain. It’s not only in the wools, merinos and silks that this has been realised in his AW19 collection, but also in the selvedge and industrial printing details that are reimagined as feature motifs on tailoring and shirting.
Silk shirts, t-shirts and scarves created in collaboration with photojournalist John Bulmer – are printed with his images of the North in the 1960s, illustrating a time of mass industrial and social change. In placing them within the context of his contemporary wardrobe, Fletcher likens the area at that time to the uncertain socio-political climate Britain is faced with today.
The storied craftsmanship of Britain is evident in the silhouettes that marry the brand’s signature tailoring, slim hems and open cuffs with nostalgic sporting details: odes to jockey shirts, rugby shirting and classic school P.E. shorts.
Double-breasted top coats are worn with jodhpur-style trousers, while mohair-panelled knitwear is teamed with satin boxing shorts. Menswear staples denim jackets and five-pocket jeans are reimagined in luxurious merino wools and shiny satins, before being top-stitched to create an inside-out appearance.
Daniel w. Fletcher AW19 is an homage to the factories, the talent, the art schools and the craftsmanship that has long existed in Great Britain, materialising in a collection that champions traditional craft and industry.