Can Circular Fashion Eliminate PFAS and Build a Sustainable Future?

When we think of fashion risks, we often wander to fleeting trends or bad outfit choices. But what if the real risk is far more insidious and hidden within the fibers of our clothing? A study by Toxic-Free Future found that nearly 72% of water-and stain-resistant garments contained PFAS. This exposes millions to harmful chemicals through everyday wear. These “forever chemicals” are not just a threat to our health but a persistent environmental problem.

However, the fashion world is starting to embrace a transformative solution: circular fashion. By redesigning how garments are made, worn, and reused, circular fashion offers a path away from practices tied to PFAS. Let’s explore the dangers of PFAS in clothing and the potential of circular fashion to eliminate risks and avoid pitfalls.

The Invisible Threat of PFAS in Your Closet 

PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) are synthetic chemicals. These were developed in the 1940s for their water-and stain-resistant properties, says the EPA. While their utility is undeniable, their impact on health and the environment is deeply concerning.  

From sleek raincoats to high-performance sportswear, PFAS are widely used in garments to repel water and resist stains. The 2023 book Toxics in Our Clothing analysed samples from 13 countries. It found that 65.3% of water- or stain-resistant products contained PFAS. These include popular items like trousers, jackets, and even children’s uniforms.  

According to a Fidra School Uniform Survey, there were alarming levels of PFAS in school uniforms marketed as stain-resistant. Children wearing these uniforms for hours every day are at heightened risk of exposure.  

Health Risks Linked to PFAS  

PFAS exposure poses significant health risks, according to legal research and TruLaw reports. These include links to cancers like kidney and testicular cancer, thyroid dysfunction, changes in birth weight, and elevated cholesterol levels. Since 1999, NHANES has monitored PFAS levels in blood. As noted by the ATSDR, these substances are now present in nearly all Americans.

The Environmental Fallout  

PFAS are known as “forever chemicals” because they do not break down in the environment. When washed, clothing containing PFAS releases these chemicals into the water. Over time, they contaminate drinking water, soil, and even food products. This cycle perpetuates their toxic legacy, making it imperative to find alternatives.  

Lessons from the AFFF Lawsuit  

Ignoring a product’s environmental lifecycle can have serious consequences, as shown by AFFF lawsuits. Aqueous film-forming foam, which contains PFAS, has allegedly contaminated drinking water. This contamination has led to major environmental and health problems. The case highlights the long-term risks of using harmful chemicals without considering their full impact.

Similarly, PFAS-laden clothing poses risks throughout its lifecycle. These lawsuits demonstrate the financial and reputational costs of neglecting sustainability. Hence, the fashion industry is required to embrace a circular model as a smart business strategy to mitigate future liabilities.

Rethinking Fashion Through Circular Models  

The concept of circular fashion is as elegant as it is revolutionary. Unlike traditional linear models of production—where clothing is made, used, and discarded—circular fashion prioritises reusing, recycling, and sustainability.  

What is Circular Fashion?  

Circular fashion designs garments with their end-of-life in mind. Instead of ending up in a landfill, clothes are created to be repurposed or biodegraded. This means using non-toxic, renewable materials and eliminating harmful chemicals like PFAS.  

By focusing on these sustainable practices, circular fashion aims to create a closed-loop system. It minimises waste and maximises the utility of resources, ultimately fostering a healthier planet and consumer base.

Embracing Circular Fashion

Circular fashion entails adopting several fundamental principles, according to insights from the European Environment Agency. Let’s understand these: 

• Avoiding toxins: One of the foremost priorities is the avoidance of toxic chemical treatments that pose risks. These harmful substances contribute to pollution and can lead to adverse health effects for individuals who wear the garments.

• A focus on durability: A strong commitment to creating garments designed for longevity is essential. The key aspect of this design philosophy includes incorporating features that facilitate repairs. It also involves ensuring that items can be easily disassembled for recycling at the end of their life cycle.

• Stopping bioaccumulation: The prevention of bioaccumulation is a critical component of their approach to material selection. This principle emphasises the importance of sourcing materials that can either be reused or safely decomposed without leaving harmful residues. 

The Real-World Impact  

By eliminating PFAS, circular fashion protects consumers and ensures that these toxic chemicals don’t make their way into the environment. Initiatives like Patagonia’s Worn Wear Program and Stella McCartney’s commitment to non-toxic fabrics are leading the way. These efforts are paving the way for a cleaner, more sustainable fashion industry, reports CBS News.  

How You Can Drive Change  

Consumers hold the power to demand better practices from the fashion industry. By choosing PFAS-free products and supporting brands committed to sustainability, we can push the market toward safer alternatives. Participating in recycling programs and advocating for clearer labeling on clothing can also make a significant impact.  

The shift to circular fashion isn’t just a trend; it’s a necessity. Together, we can move toward a future where fashion doesn’t come at the cost of our health or the environment.  

FAQs  

Q: How can I identify PFAS in clothing?  

To identify PFAS in clothing, start by checking the product label and keywords like “waterproof,” “stain-resistant,” or “durable water repellent.” If the label is unclear, contact the manufacturer directly to inquire about their use of PFAS. For definitive identification, clothing samples should be sent to a laboratory for PFAS testing using techniques like high-performance liquid chromatography or mass spectrometry.

Q: What can I do with old PFAS-laden clothing?  

First, try repurposing the fabric, especially if it’s made of synthetic materials (polyester or nylon), which are likely to contain PFAS. Some recycling programs accept synthetic fabrics. However, not all are equipped to handle hazardous chemicals, so you should check with local facilities. If repurposing or recycling isn’t viable, donate the clothing to organisations that can properly handle or dispose of PFAS-laden textiles. 

Q: How does circular fashion help reduce PFAS exposure?  

Circular fashion reduces PFAS exposure by promoting the recycling, reusing, and upcycling of clothing. This way, it limits the need for new garments that may contain harmful chemicals. Additionally, circular fashion encourages manufacturers to adopt more sustainable materials and processes, such as PFAS-free finishes. 

Circular fashion isn’t just a trend—it’s the future of sustainable style. It offers a compelling solution, combining innovation with responsibility to protect our health and planet. By ditching toxic PFAS and embracing eco-friendly innovation, we can protect our planet and our health. This way, we can also redefine fashion for generations to come. 

Top image: pexels.com, circular fashion image: Fashion-Enter Ltd