LFW 17th September 2010 – Opening with Paul Costelloe, Maria Grachvogel and Prophetik…
17-09-2010
This year the layout has been changed again, for the better! The press room is bigger and further away while the coveted photographers lounge space is tucked away from prying wi-fi seeking eyes.
This year LFW is teaming up with On/Off at the Bloomsbury Square as well as Vauxhall Fashion Scoutt at the Freemasons Hall, Covent Garden and a new addition is the Sony with Music Moves Fashion. This is based on the terrace of Somerset house and featured various unknown artists searching for the spot light.
There is the usual mix of important press and self important hangers on in over the top outfits even Jodie Marsh would think twice about. The MAC booking roster is full, Toni and Guy is full and the wait for a free cup of coffee at peak time is around 15 minutes – for filter coffee. Seriously?
Fashion wise, already there have been some fantastic fashionista spotted – Lady Gaga fantatics with big black replica sunglasses and Gareth Pugh wannabes covered in safety pins and tatty leather.
Catwalk reports by Rivkie Baum
Paul Costelloe
Funny how last season ended the same as this one began. AW10 closed with a live performance from Eliza Doolittle while Paul Costelloe settled for a pre recorded version, making Eliza fashions new hot thing.
The show itself felt very 60’s inspired with lots of full lampshade and skater skirts and a-line dresses.
The jacket of the day was the biker and came in several hues, gun metal metallic was our fav, while the shape was classic, the pushed up sleeve and metallic tone was very sharp and modern.
As usual there were several prints on offer, the first being a graphic like charcoal print in monochrome with tiny trims of blush print.
Secondly there was a graphic monochrome floral print, a pastel green floral print and a zig zag peekaboo surface decoration on short a line shifts and maxi pieces.
Costelloe is a champion of detail and a master of tailoring and this show didn’t disappoint!
Details like strong quilted shoulders (yes that 80’s form is still around) and the sleekest of cut jackets, cropped, peplumed and skinny ensured sharp jacket silhouettes that contrasted nicely with the floats skirts.I loved the ‘top and skirt combo’ dresses for their knife pleat skirts, again balanced nicely by scaloped tiered dresses. The hard and the soft the sharp with the romantic.
Menswear naturally was also a highlight. Navy teamed with white and camel. Monochrome floral shirts and hues of greys marched down the catwalk in skinny leg trousers, city short suits and trench coats. The highlight of menswear has to be when Paul’s six sons took to the runway to lots of applause!
Though there were some eighties tones in oversized bows and more body con pieces the main swing was toward the sixties. Light, romantic and sophisticated. According to Paul we shall all be beehiving our hair so get back combing!
Maria Grachvogel
Prophetik
You always know you’re in for a good show when Prophetik are about, like last season live music ensured the mood was immediately lifted. Again pieces had a real regency, period feel to them, and the buxom look of Prada and Vuitton AW10 continued here.
There several, casual maxis in both denim shades and dip dyed played a great role in adding detail and interest. One shoulder maxis and short flirty, white pieces with trinket straps fitted with the summer romantic vibe.
Menswear was again quite historical and layered. Detailing in buttons and excellent tailoring ensured a great if not niche style.
The grassed over catwalk and youthful models made me think of the secret garden, a true treat!
IMAGES BY ANDY ESPIN
