The Biba Effect

The word ‘Biba’ instantly conjures up a vision of London’s swinging 60’s; doe-eyed models in floppy brimmed hats and boho, vintage-inspired dresses. As Biba developed into what was probably the first ‘lifestyle brand’ it became apparent that it was a pivotal moment for fashion and retail. 

For a taste of brand Biba, created by Barbara Hulanicki in 1963, the Fashion & Textile Museum, London is currently exhibiting ‘The Biba Story.’ From Biba’s initial, mail-order, pink gingham dress, inspired by Brigitte Bardot, to evolving designs that Barbara envisioned as: “Clothes for people in the street. Fitz and I always tried to get prices down, down, down.”

The exhibition features archival (1964 – 1975) clothing designs, original photographs, film, homeware, beauty and lifestyle items, as well as Barbara’s inspiring fashion illustrations, all of which have been personally chosen by her. Who knew you could get a can of Biba coffee! 

Big Biba, the lifestyle encompassing department store, may have closed its doors in 1975, however the Biba brand subsequently continued independently of Barbara, and today is owned by House of Fraser. What is evident from the exhibition is that Barbara’s creative vision was at the heart and it was this combined with the right time and place, that contributed to Biba’s phenomenal success. 

Now aged 87 and living in Miami, Barbara has continuously worked on a wide range of projects from interiors to prints as well as fashion items. In 2013 the Fashion-Enter Ltd team worked with her on her IconClub clothing and accessory range. A supporter of Made in the UK, Barbara said: “My business partner found the (Fashion-Enter Ltd) Fashion Studio and this was perfect as we wanted to produce in the UK as we originally did in the 60’s with Biba.”

The Biba Story is on at the Fashion and Textile Museum, 83 Bermondsey Street, London SE1 3XF until 8th September 2024.

From Biba to Barbara (full article below) was published on FashionCapital 2nd September 2013

With her distinctive platinum bob, dark sunglasses and sharp, monochrome wardrobe fashion clearly runs through Barbara Hulanicki’s veins. Born in Poland, Barbara grew up in Britain where she began her fashion career as a freelance fashion illustrator in the 1960’s for the likes of Women’s Wear Daily, British Vogue and the Sunday Times. Her fluid, distinctive illustrative style has remained pivotal to all of her design projects to this day.

It was during the mid-60’s Barbara and her partner came to the fashion fore capturing the essence of the era with Biba, initially a small mail-order business that developed into decadent boutiques based in swinging London. Decorated in a style influenced by Art Nouveau and filled with wide-eyed models Biba became a magnet and hang-out for artists, rock stars and actors until its dramatic closure a decade later.

While Biba, much like Mary Quant, personifies the hip 1960’s and early 70’s Barbara has continued to work on design projects that have taken her all over the globe. Brands Fiorucci and Cacharel have utilised her creative skills and her line of childrenswear, Minirock, was licensed to the Japanese market. Other fashion collaborations include ranges for George at Asda, TopShop, TK Maxx, Disney Europe and Coccinelle alongside her additional creative direction on hotels, interiors and clubs.

Certainly not work shy and full of creative drive Barbara can be working on a large scale Miami super club one minute and then illustrating a t-shirt the next. This summer the FashionCapital Fashion Studio had the privilege of producing a Barbara Hulanicki bridal sketch into a unique finished garment for bride-to-be Laura Bartlett. However, don’t expect a seasonal bridal collection from Barbara in the near future, she says that “wedding dresses are rather precious and I could only design one for special people in my life that I know very well.” As Laura Bartlett is Barbara’s godchild and her mother Rosie, a former employee at Biba in Abingdon Road, asking for Barbara’s input was naturally a given.

On designing the dress Barbara sent Laura lots of sketches that included a wide range of silhouettes and she narrowed it down to one. Once the sketch was selected Laura and mum Rosie were very involved from the choice of the delicate lace to getting the fit absolutely perfect. “It is a very special moment between Mum and daughter and I would hate to brake into their thought pattern,” says Barbara. “I could only do something so intimate with people that I know and love,” she adds diplomatically.

Barbara found the Fashion Studio and “the marvellous Jenny Holloway” via another project that her company is working on. “I have a company which is producing our t-shirts with Damien Peel; my business partner found the Fashion Studio and this was perfect as we wanted to produce in the UK as we originally did in the 60’s with Biba.” Barbara continues, “At this very moment we are working with The Factory, which is very exciting and the production is fantastic, as well as having our printed scarves being finished-off at the Fashion Studio. I am so thrilled to have met Jenny Holloway!”

Barbara has certainly made her mark on the fashion industry with a career spanning six decades, her advice to up and coming fashion designers is: “Don’t be grand. You have to start by picking up pins or doing jobs in the stockroom. You should enjoy learning about business from the ground up. Believe me it will be very useful to have knowledge all across the business, not just your niche.“

By JoJo Iles