From Biba to Barbara

With her distinctive platinum bob, dark sunglasses and sharp, monochrome wardrobe fashion clearly runs through Barbara Hulanicki’s veins. Born in Poland, Barbara grew up in Britain where she began her fashion career as a freelance fashion illustrator in the 1960’s for the likes of Women’s Wear Daily, British Vogue and the Sunday Times. Her fluid, distinctive illustrative style has remained pivotal to all of her design projects to this day.

It was during the mid-60’s Barbara and her partner came to the fashion fore capturing the essence of the era with Biba, initially a small mail-order business that developed into decadent boutiques based in swinging London. Decorated in a style influenced by Art Nouveau and filled with wide-eyed models Biba became a magnet and hang-out for artists, rock stars and actors until its dramatic closure a decade later.

While Biba, much like Mary Quant, personifies the hip 1960’s and early 70’s Barbara has continued to work on design projects that have taken her all over the globe. Brands Fiorucci and Cacharel have utilised her creative skills and her line of childrenswear, Minirock, was licensed to the Japanese market. Other fashion collaborations include ranges for George at Asda, TopShop, TK Maxx, Disney Europe and Coccinelle alongside her additional creative direction on hotels, interiors and clubs.

Certainly not work shy and full of creative drive Barbara can be working on a large scale Miami super club one minute and then illustrating a t-shirt the next. This summer the FashionCapital Fashion Studio had the privilege of producing a Barbara Hulanicki bridal sketch into a unique finished garment for bride-to-be Laura Bartlett. However, don’t expect a seasonal bridal collection from Barbara in the near future, she says that “wedding dresses are rather precious and I could only design one for special people in my life that I know very well.” As Laura Bartlett is Barbara’s godchild and her mother Rosie, a former employee at Biba in Abingdon Road, asking for Barbara’s input was naturally a given.

On designing the dress Barbara sent Laura lots of sketches that included a wide range of silhouettes and she narrowed it down to one. Once the sketch was selected Laura and mum Rosie were very involved from the choice of the delicate lace to getting the fit absolutely perfect. “It is a very special moment between Mum and daughter and I would hate to brake into their thought pattern,” says Barbara. “I could only do something so intimate with people that I know and love,” she adds diplomatically.

“My business partner found the Fashion Studio and this was perfect as we wanted to produce in the UK as we originally did in the 60’s with Biba.”

Barbara found the Fashion Studio and “the marvellous Jenny Holloway” via another project that her company is working on. “I have a company which is producing our t-shirts with Damien Peel; my business partner found the Fashion Studio and this was perfect as we wanted to produce in the UK as we originally did in the 60’s with Biba.” Barbara continues, “At this very moment we are working with The Factory, which is very exciting and the production is fantastic, as well as having our printed scarves being finished-off at the Fashion Studio. I am so thrilled to have met Jenny Holloway!”

Now in her late 70’s Barbara shows no sign of slowing down, last year she received an OBE for her Services to Fashion in the Queen’s 2012 New Year Honors and she has notched up countless awards and doctorates. And that’s not all; add exhibitions, book launches and personal appearances to the list and you’ll begin to see how busy Barbara likes to be.

Currently based in Miami, a block back from the beach, Barbara spends most of her time in casuals and flip-flops working on her interior & product design projects. Every couple of months she is back in London, donning her distinctive sharp look and consulting with the design team at Asda’s clothing label – George. Not one to stand still for too long Barbara’s lengthy creative CV remains open for new additions and that’s just the way she likes it.

Images courtesy of Barbara Hulanicki Design and Laura Bartlett