Mens Grooming – The Rules

It’s that time of year again guys; nights are getting longer, birdsong fills the evening air, and the social calendar explodes after its post-Christmas drought. Winter evenings are fine for cosy huddles in the corner of the bar where no one may pay attention to your clobber, but the onslaught of Spring brings with it a myriad of social occasions where you need to dress to impress – Racing Season, Wedding Season, After-work-drinks-alfresco Season…..

You name it, and the tiniest ray of sunshine creates an occasion to go with it.

Most guys think that getting that suit out from the back of the wardrobe will suffice when the occasion deems formal, and yes, the days of invitations stating black-tie or white-tie may be behind us. But even when opting for a simple 2pce suit, there are subtle rules that those “in-the-know” adhere to…………….

Shoes – must always be freshly polished. A woman always judges a man by his shoes, and tatty dull leather can ruin the impact of the sharpest of outfits!! Regular polishing also prolongs the life of your footwear, and can re-vamp any old pairs at the bottom of the wardrobe.

Belt – should ALWAYS be the same colour of leather as your shoes

Socks – your socks should always match your shoes i.e. black socks with black shoes/ brown socks with brown shoes. If this is too restrictive or conservative for you then take your inspiration from the boardroom style of Peter Jones from Dragons’ Den – a colourful striped sock states that you’re non-conformist while still looking classy. Cartoon characters should be avoided at all costs unless you are under the age of 12.

 

Shirts – a crisp double cuff with a statement cufflink oozes the kind of understated style that’s expected for the Derby. Cufflinks should be silver or gold and are the one area of a mans wardrobe where its tasteful to wear your wealth – touches such as gemstones and intricate metalwork also indicate you have a keen eye for jewelry, and this won’t go unnoticed by any of the ladies you accompany. On the other hand, while your mates think that those Homer Simpson cufflinks are hilarious, your partner will be cringing and praying that you don’t have the matching underwear. Ideally you should be showing 1cm of shirt cuff below your suit sleeve.

 

Ties – the major “statement piece” of any mans wardrobe, this is the one item of clothing that conveys your personality. Use bold colours that clash with your shirt to portray your outgoing personality, or choose a tie that is the same colour as your shirt for understated refinement. For racing season, the “full-Windsor” knot is de rigueur, and oozes old-school class.

Tailoring – invest in the best cut possible, as a well-tailored jacket has the same effect as 6 weeks in the gym! A low-breaking 2 button suit elongates your torso, while a wide lapel will make your shoulders look bigger. Always ensure that your sleeves and trousers are taken up to the correct length – sleeve cuffs should be in line with your thumb socket, while trouser hems should reach the top of your heel and break slightly on the front of your shoe. Never EVER button the lowest button on your jacket, and if you are accessorizing with a (plain!) handkerchief in your top pocket then ensure the colour matches your tie – a white hankie will look like a cheap Kleenex.

Remember to travel light – don’t undo all that hard work by breaking the line of your suit! Trouser pockets full of car keys and loose change are unflattering, while an over-laden jacket can look shoddy – keep your wallet as thin as possible (banknotes in multiples of 20 and your top 2 credit cards should suffice) and keep your mobile phone in your inside pocket. Never use the outer pockets of your suit jacket.

 

Pattern – a pinstripe suit is one of the sharpest style investments a man can make, but combining a bold pinstripe suit with an equally bold stripe shirt really does say that you need to go to Specsavers! If your suit is plain then by all means modernize it with a colourful and bold stripe or check in your shirt. Alternatively, if your suit has the bold stripe then you need to refine you shirt choice and opt for a plain colour or at least a plain collar-and-cuff.

Clashing colours states that you’re young and adventurous; clashing patterns screams that you need a stylist.

By Keith Huston

Contact – menswear@fashioncapital.co.uk