LFW Feb 13: Bernard Chandran
With his most cohesive presentation to date, Chandran’s collection encapsulated the essence of sexy Mod attitude with menswear inspired tailoring. The designer experimented with infusing sharp tailoring that indicated a masculine influence and structured silhouettes, with a modern, edgy feminine twist that came as an unexpected design delight.
Models appeared extremely clean cut with high neck leather dresses, long leather donkey jackets and severe, striking lines on floor-length coats, rigid collars and knee-length skirts. The palette remained true to its overall masculine theme with muted grays, glossy bottle greens, ice whites, pewter and russet. The beginning moments presented an illusion of a three-piece suit which revealed itself to be an elegant all-in-one, ultimately captivating the audience from the very start.
Chandran’s statement pieces captured the finer details of the essence of menswear. Whilst waistcoat detailing granted a masculine edge to a fabulous fuschia cocktail dress, the totalitarianism of a modern and empowered woman was showcased via floor-length leather coats. Androgyny aside, the designer explored into the journeying of the breadth of freedom in women’s fashion. Garments were softened by feminine elements such as peplum lining or a floor length, fitted sequin skirt in opulent golds, essentially steering away from conventionally mannish shapes.
The vibrancy of the east along with Chandran’s love of a vivacious cultural background planted a modernization to a hand-woven brocade that was combined with leather and tubing to create a highly original vision to the traditional print. Cultural elements were also displayed through the oriental inspired colour palette, with wonderful hues including fuschia, tan and cobalt blue. Chinese kimonos were adorned with high collars and linear zips, where combinations of contemporary fabrics were seen to be modernized.
The encapsulating vision of Chandran’s collection thoroughly explored the many guises of the modern woman – adapting from influential business woman to cosmopolitan social butterfly.
By Katie Farley
Freelance Fashion Stylist & Fashion Writer
Read more from Katie on her weekly designer review page ‘Katie’s Fashion Fairground’ in Industry Trends on FashionCapital