Style Addict – Fashion Week Special
The show must go on…or indeed, shows, while some designers have opted for static exhibitions and in-house presentations others are determinedly sticking with the catwalk. Even so, there is a touch of caution in the air, now is not the time to splurge on epic scale productions why, that would be just too vulgar in these financial volatile times. Even New York’s big brands have cut-back on invitation numbers this season, show-crashers beware!
The fashion circuit…who is doing what where and some names to keep an eye on this A/W 09/10 season:
New York: 13 February – 20 February
Take a look at New York's schedule and you'll see in-salon and low key presentations galore. Previews hint at clean, pared-down styles with an emphasis on quality. Descriptions such as "timeless" and "classic" are being banded about. Not ones to miss out New York's up-and-coming designers have decided to join forces and share shows, thus the cost. Nicholas K, Mara Hoffman, and Sergio Davila are showing one-after-the-other at the tents while great pals Camilla Staerk and Victor Glemaud are combining forces – providing two-for-one for their audience.
One's to watch: Prabal Gurung, craftsmanship and quality perfect wardrobe investments for now. Matthew Terry, staple classics with a modern twist.
London: 20 February – 25 February
Despite the caution loaded atmosphere designer Maria Grachvogel is making a catwalk comeback after an absence of 5 years. Sculptural shapes and exquisite cuts provide the basis for her confident collection, designs that will no doubt delight her high-profile pal – Victoria Beckham.
After much debate rumour is LFW might have finally found its new home. While the LFW tents pitch up once again outside the Natural History Museum this season talk is Somerset House could well provide the central London base that the British Council is looking for.
On/Off – the independent showcase that bridges the gap between on and off-schedule talent, consistently presents 'ones to watch' this season our money is on milliner J Smith Esquire, womenswear designer Hannah Marshall and a welcome return to 80s clubwear queen Pam Hogg.
Off-schedule – cult couturier and all-round colourful character Ziad Ghanem will present his Maiden Britain junior line. Entitled ‘The Immigrant’ the collection draws from a diverse cultural mix merging plenty of sex, wit and unique handcrafted details along the way.
Milan: 25 Feb – 4 March
Catwalk presentations aside the first port of call for buyers in Milan is the 'White' show. Previewing sophisticated collections from emerging and well-known designers White focuses on contemporary women’s fashion and accessories. One to watch this season is accessories designer Sergei Grinko. With a penchant for the past Grinko mixes styles and eras to create something new. Statement necklaces and bags are proving popular adding interest to pared-down designs and all of Grinko's pieces retain elements of couture craftsmanship.
Paris: 5 – 12 March
Credit crunch? What credit crunch? Parisians have lined-up shows and parties galore as well as bagging Gareth Pugh into the mix. London may have lost one of its most inspiring talents of late but it will be interesting to see Pugh develop his unique style into a niche brand. Definitely one to watch.