LFW Feb 09 – Ann

For the last two seasons ASB has been ranting on about the paparazzi, plastic surgery and reality television, so I have to admit I was a bit presumptuous about tonight's show.

I was totally blown a way however by the collection this evening.

The collection entitled ‘Ann-Sofie Back burns in hell' (sounds pleasant right) was played out to a sound track of seriously spooky music. At one point the Vanity Fair girl next to me did look like she might cry and was cowering in fear.

The idea behind this conceptual collection was traditional USA stereotypes, but referenced teenage horror flicks as its main basis.

Models faces were painted ghostly white and while hair was crimped, they looked straight ahead, slowly trooping like zombies to the end of the runway.

The collection started with gothic, high waisted trousers, beautifully tailored to the ankle and with fantastic, front zip detailing.

Tight fitting jersey dresses were adorned with destructed dream-catchers, so web like appliqué and feathers began to adorn each garment. It was like the dream catchers had been shattered and destroyed, resulting in a host of nightmares that ultimately became an incredible collection.

To represent knife cuts from horror movies such as ‘Nightmare on Elm Street', dresses were slashed, exposing under layers of fabric and sometime simply the models skin. The slashes continued to decorate a host of trousers, acid wash, denim, shirtdresses and velvet body con garments. This followed ASB infamous, deconstructed/reconstructed style.

More commercial pieces included a wet look playsuit, oversized jumpers and some sweet tiered, waterfall draped skirts.

Due to the gothic nature, there was a host of lace and velvet, complimented nicely by draped jersey.

Alongside these were key ASB pieces that included some of her traditional and well loved tuxedo jackets and coats, again asymmetrically designed, there was a well tailored suit jacket, which was over sized and androgynous, as well as bomber jackets.

The entire colour palette was monochrome, only brightened by occasional outings of blue.

As the collection began to draw to a close, ASB ensured to pull all the elements of the collection together, combining webbed dream catchers with strategically placed rips.

Hopefully Ann-Sofie Back will finally get some of the credit she deserves!

Words Rivkie Baum

Photography Paul Persky