LFW Feb 09 – Nico D
24-02-2009
Having missed last season, I felt that Nico was back on fighting form with a fantastic collection of well tailored and experimentally draped pieces.
The collection was shown according to colour stories and the first piece out onto the runway was a fabulous, rich, purple, wrap jacket with an over-sized collar. Nico really excelled this season on his outerwear, concentrating mainly on textured wool coats that mixed different fabric in the same shades to create detail. Coats were quite short, sitting just above the thigh, while jackets sat at waist length.
The womenswear continued to be very strong, with great coats, tailored jackets and asymmetrically draped pencil skirts, in suiting wool and a thicker fleece wool. Prints were out as Nico went back to basics focusing purely on cutting. This definitely paid off. As the collection developed into more eighties shades of electric blue and wet look black, we saw cowl back dresses, that wrapped tightly at the waist and loosely draped playsuits that were bang on trend for next season.
Menswear is always a sure fire winner at Nico, trained in tailoring he produces some exquisite suiting that is always well cut and ironically detailed; whether its braces or unusual trouser shapes and pleats. There were a host of weaves and colours, with monochrome checks, caramel and cream all on show. I was especially partial to the chunky knits layered with cape like skin coats, all furry on the inside. Nico translated his tailoring well to womenswear, with some fantastic, suit style trousers that had front invert pleats that create gorgeous drapery.
To round off the show Nico showed sequin embellished dresses and suit jackets for the discerning party folk. It is a real step up from two seasons ago when Nico last showed and I feel this collection is finally showing off just what a strong cutter he is; Oh and his man bags are just so devine!
For more gossip, go to: http://fash-pack.blogspot.com







