LFW Feb 09 – Bora Aksu

 

 

There was definitely an eighties vibe to the show, with hardcore rock undertones, with models wearing destructed tights. The colour palette again was very 'early Madonna'; dark green, electric blue, black, gun metal and nude all made an appearance, with black naturally being the most prominent.

 

 

Prints were definitely floral based (again), but these were not flowers for the pretty girl. Aksu girls are much tougher, meaner and stronger than the rest of the pack. Like tribal warriors, they are not to be messed with. The black based prints, switched between green and electric navy accents and appeared to have plastic coating. It was like a modern mix of brocade and Roccoco.

 

 

 

Tops took on the form of Victorian corsetry, with square necklines, they were incredibly form fitted and shot out at the waist in little peplums. They were intensely detailed, following the trend of the week for pintucking and pleating, delicate chiffon to create gorgeous surface detailing. Cutout sections were often replaced with chiffon, again adding this intense detailing.

 

 

 

There were no trousers in the collection, but they weren't missed, as Aksu created gorgeous, 80's skater skirts, that have been a miss for a couple of Summers now. Fuller skirts were evident this week and the skater is one of my favourite varieties. The skirts came both printed and plain, with sheer layers of chiffon, under-skirted by nude tones to create an 'is it / isn't it' see through feeling.

 

 

 

Shoulders were strong and boxy, again following this slightly eighties / futurism that is definitely a big trend for A/W 09. My favourite jacket was embellished with tones of gold eyelets. It was so rock chic and also quite an easy translatable look.

 

 

Dress bodices were incredibly risque, often only just about covering the models modesty with detailing on the sheer, sheer, tops. The detail had all the hallmarks of tribal markings, but done in plastic, this again has me thinking of my new favourite fashion phrase, 'tribal, futurism'.

 

 

With everyone going for detailing, next season will be one for buying wisely. Looking out for origami detailing and folds will mean buying pieces that have been well loved and thought out. Though there were more conventional shirt dresses and tux jackets. The dresses really are why Bora can pack out a venue. Perfect silhouettes, while not for the faint hearted, certainly set my pulse racing.