The Venue

This year's Golden Shears Awards was held at the fittingly appropriate Merchant Taylors Hall, quintessentially English in all of its' historical antiquity the venue is tucked behind the city's Royal Exchange. Upon entrance I was transported back to an era of old, of heirs and graces, Lords and Ladies, and had to remind myself that I was still in London city, home to bankers, traders and solicitors. Guests were ushered into the internal courtyard and the Hall's adjoining plush reception rooms. As with all matters of luxury the detail and presentation is of great importance. Guests were free to roam opulent rooms with awe-inspiring high decorative ceilings and chandeliers, adorned with art which catalogued the historical importance of the organisation behind the awards, the Merchant Taylors' Company. Established in the 14th the society's original purpose was as a society for tailors but has since evolved into an organisation which primarily supports charity.

Judges

·         David Furnish                  Executive Producer – Rocket Pictures (Backing from Disney)

·         Marek Reichman             Director of Design – Aston Martin

·         Caryn Franklin                Former Fashion Editor of i-D (clothes show 1986-1998)

·         James Sherwood            Curator & Author – The London Cut

·         Patrick Grant                 Director Norton & Sons

(Appeared on GQ Best dressed list / Esquires best dressed)      

Show and thoughts

The show started as punctually as any fashion show has been known to start with addresses from key contributors to the evening's award ceremony. After being told that we were going to see all garments in the best possible light I waited for the "anything looks good by candle light" ambience to be replaced by a surge of full bright show lights. However as the first exquisitely tailored suit made its' way towards me I noticed the cleverly orchestrated spotlight which followed the model down the runway. Every garment was going to have its moment this evening with understated styling aiming to finish rather than outshine the clothing.

What followed was model after model wearing typically eccentric and perfectly panelled together tailored pieces. Tweed, Plus Twos, waist coats and pencil skirts all made their way down the runway.

Indeed bar one or two exceptions most were form fitting suits with only slight nods to modern day 2009.  The youth and fresh thinking was evident, darts lined with bright yellow, tweed jackets with purple velvet collars and skirt suites edged with turquoise. Traditional pinstripe made its necessary appearance and the collections' base colours all however stayed much the same keeping a traditional feel to all entries. Heavy fabrics took on a new light, crafted into tight fitting fresh idea jackets with scalloped edges, skirt suits with bold black and white stripes, peplums and kilts.

Attention to detail was as expected from apprentices of the great Saville Row. Amongst the stars of the evening was Andrea Nixon, winner of the Rising Award, who hand wove and dyed fabric with meticulous skill.

The occasional brow-raising garment came down the runway as a refreshing lift from the otherwise more conservative looks; among my favourites were the black and white skirted suit and the military jacket which may have been a discerning nod to Viktor and Rolf.

All in all the show seemed a great success with Rory Duffy picking up the coveted first place prize and a cash prize of £2,000. Although Rory's collection, with standout Frockcoat piece, was not my favourite of the evening, the criteria of outfit on design, cutting and handicraft tailoring had evidently been taken into consideration when picking this deserving winner.

The young up and coming, tailoring for the young and up and coming. How very exciting.

Winners

·         3^rd Place      Andrea Nixon – Hand Woven and self dyed green lamb's wool jacket and skirt

·         2^nd Place     Paulo Nicodemi – Tweed shooting jacket with pleats and plus two's with vest coat

·         1^st Place      Rory Duffy – Frockcoat and Kilt in navy/cream window pane tweed

 

By Shelma Powell