GFW 09 – The Arts Institute of Bournemouth

This collection impressed me, not because of its commercial ability, but because of the Line's ability to really push boundaries and work a concept not just a design. The striking sculpture, creating almost hive like forms was truly inventive and imaginative and the laser cut outs that looked a lot like Arabic showed a clash of cultures and belonging. The playfulness of silhouettes, the vibrancy of the golden orange, with navy and white was a bold choice that paid off. A BA is the last chance for experimentation and Line used this chance wisely. 

Felicity Doubleday also caught my eye, with her collection of mens and women's wear. Consisting of a cropped military coat, with braided epulates, sculptured and structured trousers and playsuits, Felicity effortless flowed her collection between mens and women's wear effortlessly. The braided, knit accessories and the twists and ties that manipulated the shapes of the garment created strong silhouettes and the war theme was evident, yet not too over bearing. I loved the colour palette of grey, blue, nude an red, it was strong yet understated with accenting shown in all the right places.

 

Finally I present to you menswear. It's been tough finding a menswear collection that I felt pushed enough boundaries, without being, quite frankly a bit silly or over done. I have seen enough over sized shirts to last me a life time and to me, a graduate collection full of suiting, just won’t cut it anymore. 

 Harald Helgesen managed to pull off a fun and colourful collection that reminded me of a rainbow version of Indiana Jones. Starting with safari style, snake print suiting that was in its own way structured, yet over sized. The collection swiftly moved into a drip dyed hareem pant and a rainbow, ink print top. The waist coats and jackets with multi pockets were creatively cut and yet very commercial, while the collection was spun on its head with a bomber jacket in white fur and a delightful pair of multi coloured fur trousers, crazily cool and finally a menswear collection I can smile at.

 

Words: Rivkie Baum http://fash-pack.blogspot.com

 Photography by Gabriel Coreuera Zubillaga