Graduate Fashion Week June 2010 – International University Show

BERLIN

The German university students kicked off the international show and it seemed all had the requirement of men and women’s wear in their final collection. The main issue however of letting the European’s in, is that quite frankly their students kicked many of ours to the curb. The strength in the cutting and construction as well as the ability to mix creartive and wearable was incredible.

There were three students who stood out for me.

Denise Pache menswear was far stronger than the women’s wear, however I equally thought that when the models stood together the collection was incredibly cohesive. The print was a marble effect of cream base with toffee toned overlay and was both grunge and serenity in one. Excellently thought out and styled menswear featured exaggerated shoulders, a Burberry shouldered trench and cropped trousers. The jackets were well cut and tailored to perfection. While the women’s wear worked on the same palette the more casual feel of dungarees and denim style pieces made for an All Saints kind of look.

Wolfgang Jarnach again showed a storng collection of both men and women’s wear. It was all very dramatic and theatrical with the women’s wear being intensely androgynous. Black, white and electric navy was a dark and moody choice but worked well with the Balenciaga hips and velvet corsets. For menswear long shirts were shown over slim leg trousers and there were several dinner jackets, utilising black and white panel detailing. There was even a skirt with dip dye white and blues.

Alexander Fenzl’s 50’s style selection was 99 percent menswear and I loved the checker board cowl neck piece and the cheque black and white shirting. Accented with yellow leather bomber jackets and sports jackets in navy hues, this collection was both interesting, well constructed and commercially viable.

LASALLE

There were three students from Lasalle at the international show that stood out for me. Firstly Vicole Lang who produced Gareth Pugh like drama with black moulded Balenciaga style hips that were sculpted into feather like structures. It was exceptionally cut and a real dramatic piece. I also loved the leather jacket. It looked so expensive I could practically smell it from my seat!

Li Sang created a ‘rebellious toy’ collection. While the colours were poppy, pretty and doll like (hues of yellow, green, white) the dresses were body con with plenty of angular and architectural panelling. Peplum side panels jutted out while sculptured spikes popped out all over the show!

Lidya Chrisjen’s cut away jersey leggings with twists on the fabric were really fabulous and the rope jumpsuit was creative and challenging. There were also bustiers made of rope and the marble tie dye print jerseys, hoisted and held into position by ropes made for a cohesive and interesting look. Taupe, orange, pink and khaki made for a strong palette.

ST. PETERSBERG

St. Petersberg student Anna Sergunova caught my eye for the fetish overtones in her collection. Fetish has been popular today, but I particularly liked her execution of her caplets with front buckles and the piping details were very reminiscent of armour. The heel-less shoes were very Pam Hogg and the rounded shoulders again gave the illusion oyf strength and power, another popular silhouette today.

Alena Tikhonova produced my favourite menswear collection that featured tones of leather, including a full on leather biker jacket with all the seam and zip details. The panelling details that were highlighted through monochrome colour blocking which really showed off the construction techniques.

AMSTERDAM

The AFI graduates were pretty strong but especially in their conceptual and creative ability.

Perspex, pvc and plastics were the order of the day with Floor Kolen creating plastic shorts, shoulder moulded pieces and even a prosthetic style hand. It was kind of creepy in a cool way, obscenely beautiful. Again the hard/soft trend reared its head and perspex casing created fit on a draped cowl shift, while a chiffon polka dot dress was subjected to hoops that created other worldly structure. Ruffle details also softened the plastics stiffness.

Roya Itesam created soft separates. Nude, white and brown were the main palette that were incredibly relaxing and soft. There were chiffon jumpsuits, satin trims on sheer garments and side slash trousers (that I hope weren’t inspired by Cheryl Cole). Tailored jackets with draped and pleated fronts saw a harsher element to the look by using leather again mixing soft and structured together. The final piece, a wool stitch detail chiffon catsuit was extremely well received and very clever indeed.

Menswear wise, I was fond of Lana Wijnand’s collection that featured soft, loose shirting, Balenciaga style shoulders and collarless jackets. Draped fronted shirts ensured fullness and weight creating an unusal silhouette. Trousers found equal volume in their peg legs. Nude and khaki again ensured for strong but soft palette, accented by a piece of red knitwear that was very striking if not a little out of place.

 

Rivkie Baum

Images By Hugh O Malley

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