Costumes of War

 

 

However, this time around, the trend is marching forward and making a bold statement on the autumn/winter catwalk 2005. It is time for a more grown up approach towards military dress and boy does it look good. So, stand up and pay a-ttention! Kyrsty Hazell reports.

 

 

 

If you were to tell a fashion follower such as my self, that I would be wearing something that made me look like something from Dad’s Army, I’d probably tell you that there would more chance in you seeing me wear a velvet velour tracksuit with ‘Bootilicious’ across the backside. I never quite understood the notion of dressing for war if the only war you will be encountering is the war of who gets the bathroom first or who gets to be in charge of the remote control (in which case, is a war that is never won).

 

The material looks stiff and uncomfortable not to mention unpractical for everyday life. Khaki has never been my colour and anything with badges attached to it has always made me go a shade of khaki. The army jackets are unflattering and shapeless, leaving my figure looking like a sack of potatoes and making me look as elegant as a garden gnome.

 

 

 

It is fair to say that I am not a great fan of the military look and it is understandable that I was sceptical when seeing it splattered across the catwalk in my latest issue of Vogue. However, it was to my surprise how the military look has evolved and how versatile it has become. Ok, so maybe this look might be so bad, as it now more subtle and quirky, not to mention more original than it had been before. Although the last attempt of the military dressing left a bad taste in my mouth, I have to say that I am edging towards becoming a new recruit of the fashion army 2005.

 

Women originally began dressing military style when the decision was made for them to be actively involved in the war in 1939. Being chic in wartime was not an option, or that’s what they were told to think. However, wartime fashionistas didn’t let war get in the way of them being stylish and reading the latest issue of Vogue. Not letting war dampen their moods, Harper’s Bazaar continued talking pure fashion-speak and Vogue carried on providing readers with the latest fashion news and must haves.

 

 

 

Every woman had to join a particular war service and adjust to the uniform it provided. Each service had its own style of uniform, the WVS uniform was designed by Digby Morton which included the forage cap, WRNS consisted of a well tailored navy great coat, white shirt and navy directoire knickers, and the WVS uniform had women wearing old girl guide uniforms. The colour was mostly khaki green or pale brown as they were the camouflaged colours, except for the WRNS, who wore navy uniforms. Full length double breasted jackets were worn with tailored trousers or long, pencil skirts. Women began to begrudge the uniforms less and celebrate the fact that they were an important part of the war and wore their uniforms with pride. By the end of the war, it had become ‘in vogue’ to wear your uniform.

 

The wartime chic has been resurrected once again and like back in 1939, women are celebrating the fact that their sisters were part of the war. By ditching the stiff, heavy material and adding their own tonal decoration, designers have stunned the catwalk and made us stand to attention. Like the original WRNS group, Michael Kors has adopted the navy blue chic and made his version of the military jacket. Teamed with razor sharp pencil skirts and sky scraper heels, the overall effect was powerful and totally desirable.

 

 

 

Eley Kishimoto cinched waisted jackets with big gold buttons emblazoned down the front and Jean Paul Gaultier’s full on gold embellished cropped jacket both contributed towards 2005’s take on the military look. However, the best show and collection of all has to be the Vivienne Westwood’s ‘Propaganda’ themed show. Being her normal unpredictable and diverse self, not only did she pay homage to wartime chic, but she also wanted to make a point. With her anoraks and rigorous cut jackets, she wowed the catwalk by rebelling against propaganda.

 

It is clear by the quality and calibre of the autumn/winter collections that the military is going to be a success both with the designers and in the highstreet. I may indulge in the wartime trend despite my earlier disapproval, as I have found a great version of the navy gold trimmed jacket in Primark for only £15 – a total bargain! Embrace the military trend and join the new fashion army- buttoning up has never looked so stylish.

 

 

 

Kyrsty Hazell