BLACK IS THE NEW BLACK
12-08-2005
Black has made a dramatic come back on the catwalk after being less favoured over bright colours throughout the last few fashion years. Think sleek black taffeta party dresses, chiffon blouses and the return of the smart pencil skirt. Yes, ladies it’s time to dig out your LBD (little black dress), as black is so totally back. Kyrsty Hazell reports.
Spring/ summer 2005 was all about fancy free, loose fitting, vibrant coloured pieces aimed for you to give Sienna Miller a run for her money. Boho chic was the key word and every one who was everyone, embraced the hippy comeback. The topic of what the designers were going to bring for autumn/winter was on everyone’s lips- will the gipsy skirt survive another season? Will we have to hang up our cowboy boots for good? And, what would the colour of the winter season be? Yes, flouncy gipsy skirts have officially slipped off the radar, cowboy boots are as good as gone and the colour of the season is black. Yes, BLACK.
It came as a shock to see the autumn/winter catwalk drenched in black and drained of any hues of emerald green, aqua blue or fuchsia pink, as fashion has been blinded by colour for so long. From Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent to Versace and Rocha, each designer has embraced the dark side and given us an array of party dresses, chiffon shifts, beautifully crafted jackets and slim line pencil skirts, all in next season’s favourite colour.
Black, which once stood for rebellious chic, gothic attire and office uniform, had, by the turn of the millennium, subsequently fell from favour. Five years out of fashion is a long time but designers have decided that it is time to revitalise the darkest of shades and make it the colour you’ll be investing in this autumn/winter. Wearing black now is not about androgyny, minimalism or seriousness- it concerns powerful silhouettes, baroque detailing and rigorous cuts. You’ll find shirts with pin tucks and pretty bowed detailed on your waist at Chanel, voluminous pouffy skirts paired with knotted off-the shoulder jackets and draped kimono style coats in inky black, square cut wool cardigan ribboned just under the elbow at Marc Jacobs and luscious delicate rippled cocktail dresses and sassily sexy day-to-night skirt suits at Rocha.
The little black dress, known to all fashionistas as the LBD, has been teamed up with the emergence of the LBJ, (little black jacket). Jackets are one of the key items which have appeared on the catwalk, and an appearance they have made! They are slim fitting, have pronounced waists and dramatic collars, the perfect ingredients for a statement making piece of clothing.
The return of black has created the catwalk and the models into modern day film noir beauties. Marlene Dietrich, one of the most famous film noir legends, created an air of mystique, elegance and tragedy. Think of her in Devil Is a Woman, with her dark looks and fashion sense, designers have chosen to recreate her look and inject some mystery and true glamour into autumn/winter 2005. From ladylike black to power suits in black, the choice is endless and will enable your inner glamour puss to shine.
If you have been seduced by the dark side and want to try next season’s colour, why not be smart and enter the trend by purchasing a LBJ: little black jacket. Your jacket will work well over a silk cocktail dress, look chic over a neat pencil skirt and will smarten up denim in an instant.
You can also make the LBD: little black dress darkly luxurious if you indulge in the new voluminous style and try the puffball dress, available at Chanel and Karl Laggerfield at H&M. Add instant drama by adding a decorative gold sequinned cape over your dark outfit, creating a striking overall look. Or why not combine your little black jacket and anything else you own which is black and add a piece of statement jewellery to add to the effect? The results will be dazzling and will contrast well against the dark colour- Mikey and Freedom at Topshop has a fantastic range of statement jewellery.
Although the black revival may come as a shock and to many it may feel like an impossible colour to pull off, fret no more! Everyone has an item of black clothing in their wardrobe and all it takes is creative thinking and accessorising and your look is complete! Don’t be afraid to experiment as black can go hand in hand with glamour as well as providing elegant everyday looks.
Now that bright butterfly colours and gipsy skirts have slipped out of favour, don’t be fooled into thinking that the fun has gone and that we are in for a very dull (not to mention cold) winter. It is all about complicated styles, dramatic cuts and over the top glamour. Black is back and it is time for a more serious kind of fun.
Kyrsty Hazell