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Pure Womenswear Directions Spring/Summer 2006



{mosimage}Pure Womenswear has steadily built up to become the largest UK show offering top quality contemporary and young creative brands. Held over the last three days, Sunday (14th Aug) and Monday pulled in the strongest numbers with key buyers from the likes of Harrods, Selfridges, Psyche, Brown Thomas, Stone, Liberty and El Cortes Ingles all in attendance.


The season’s key trends were brought to life with daily catwalk shows which were independently edited to give an unbiased view of the hottest looks. The catwalk presentations, combined with fashion forecasting talks from industry professionals and Draper’s Record, ensured that main trends were received loud and clear.


Pure Catwalk


First up, Drapers Fashion Editor, Khabi Mirza, discussed the new Spring/Summer trends with Geraldine Bennett, the UK Sales Director at Oui:


{mosimage}The talk opened with opinions about the boho look, first championed by the likes of Kate Moss and Sienna Miller. While boho has been done-to-death there’s no doubt its appeal is broad, as it flatters most body shapes and has been taken on by all ages. Geraldine gave her opinion on the look: “I think boho will evolve into a more diluted look. Shapes will become more streamlined and will look more fluid.” Khabi agreed and mentioned that embellishment will survive from the trend albeit in a subtler way.


‘Luxury neutrals’ was another key trend that the pair discussed. Fabrics with surface interest such as brocades in shades of pearl, oyster, beige and pale gold underline the seasons focus on elegance rather than over the top opulence. “This is where the independents can really excel,” said Geraldine, “as the High Street will find it hard to compete on quality.”


{mosimage}On the subject of colour while the emphasis remains on neutrals and the new softer palette of sorbet shades plenty of exhibitors did include bolder tones such as strong pinks, leaf green and turquoise. Geraldine was optimistic about the season’s new shades mentioning that pale ice-cream tones are very flattering and look fresh again. “White” she said, “will also be key.”


Other trends mentioned in the discussion include – Nautical; which will take on subtle maritime details. Safari; with a hint of animal prints and fluid shapes offering safari-esque styling. Urban Pirate; the new boho for a more directional crowd and Monochrome; a great classic seller updated with this season’s shapes. The kaftan will also make it back for another summer, forget the billowy hippy shapes from this year and focus on a reworked fluid and body-skimming silhouette. This idea of paring styles down into leaner, elegant shapes was a recurring theme through-out the talk.


The discussion rounded-off with a mention of China. Khabi feels that China will influence up-and-coming trends as the spotlight heads east with a major UK exhibition focusing on Chinese Art, scheduled for the end of the year.


Discussion over, and it was time to experience the Pure catwalk show. Split into seven key scenes here are the selected trends for the season:



1 Courier Stance {mosimage}



Mood: Rock chic meets The Matrix


Key Shapes: Skinny dark denims, cropped jackets, shirt dresses, bomber jackets, blazers, waistcoats, cropped trousers, leggings, anoraks and A-line skirts.


Fabrics: Leather, denim, cotton.


Colours: Black, white, grey.


Print & Styling: White graphic prints on black, rivets, zips and buckles.




2 Global Traveller



Mood: An eclectic mix of global inspirations


Key Shapes: Slightly A-line skirts varying in length from knee to ankle, kaftans, tunics, cropped trousers, waistcoats, knit gilets, wrap tops and cardigans.


Fabrics: Cottons, sari, linen, chiffon, wool, brocade and beaded sections. 


Colours: White, cream, biscuit, tan, dusty pink, pale berry, chocolate, lime and emerald green.


Print & Embellishment: Florals, tie-dye, paisley, ethnic prints, beading and sequins.


Global Traveller



3 Dressed-Up Denim


Mood: Denim prettied up with some vintage florals


Key Shapes: Skinny denims, cut-off denims, shrugs, blazers, vest tops and A-line dresses.


Fabrics: Blue denim, silk, cotton, lace, embroidered knits and leather.


Colours: Pale-mid blue denim, white, green, cream, turquoise and pale pink.


Print & Embellishment: Vintage floral prints, bird prints, embroidery.


Dressed-Up Denim



4 The Neutrals {mosimage}



Mood: Neutral tones in key seasonal styles.


Key Shapes: City shorts, shirts, crochet coats, wrap tops, cropped jackets, empire-line dresses, wide-leg trousers and A-line skirts.


Fabrics: Silk, linen, cotton, lace and knitwear.


Colours: Cream, oatmeal, biscuit, grey, pale gold, chocolate brown.


Print & Embellishment: Crochet designs, sequins and washed-out look prints.




5 Evening Glamour


Mood: Frocks that say – ‘look at me.’


Key Shapes: Empire-line dresses, puff skirt shapes, kaftans and floor-length dresses.


Fabrics: Light chiffons, silk, cotton and mixed fibres.


Colours: Green, cerise, white and lemon.


Prints & Embellishment: Oversized florals, circular patterns and beading.


Evening Glamour



6 Naughty Nautical


Mood: Nautical style with a 2006 flavour.


Key Shapes: Blazers, ruffle shirts, floor length skirts and dresses, tie-belt shorts, gilets, military jackets, tailored trousers, waistcoats.


Fabrics: Cotton, denim and linen.


Colours: Navy and White


Prints & Embellishment: Military details, stripes, printed sections, tie-belts and contrasting piping.






7 Big Top {mosimage}



Mood: Vintage style played against modern day proportion.


Key Shapes: Ruffle skirts, cropped jackets, jodhpur shapes, cropped trousers, vintage look dresses, Victoriana blouses, waistcoats and lace blouses.


Fabrics: Lace, silk, cotton, broderie anglaise and lightweight knits.


Colours: Cream, peach, mint, tan, burgundy and black.


Prints & Embellishment: Tiny florals, lacy over-layers, vintage buttons and embroidery. 




Images: Courtesy of Pure and by JoJo Iles



By JoJo Iles www.fashionpr.co.uk


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