China is so in Vogue

 

 

 

 

Although still largely a traditional nation unaffected by the fast consumer lifestyles that dominate the western world, there has been a remarkable rise of a new generation of professional women in their 20’s and 30’s, who have new spending powers and aspirations seated in consumerism.  They aspire to buy into the lifestyle that luxury brands offer, to immerse themselves in the romance of fashion and beauty. 

 

{mosimage}In the past years, the tough media regulations imposed on foreign publishers in China have been considerably relaxed, which has seen the launch of lifestyle magazines, Elle, Marie Claire, Cosmopolitan and Harpers Bazaar.  It has taken Condé Nast more than two years to navigate its way through the Chinese bureaucracy and gain the license it needed to bring out the world’s sixteenth Vogue.  Its approval was eventually sealed by its partnership with state publisher China Pictorial Publishing house.  This did however mean branding the magazine with a Chinese name in Chinese characters.  Vogue China is called the somewhat unimaginative “Fashion and make-up”.

 

It was always going to be a gamble to launch Vogue in China, however, its booming economy and increasing presence in the fashion industry suggests it is one gamble that is going to pay off for Condé Nast.

 

{mosimage}Its success was assured from the outset, developed under the steam of a strong editorial team, including Editorial director Angelica Cheung who joined from her position as editorial director of Chinese Elle.

The first issue launched on 15^th August 2005 sold out its first print of 300,000 copies within five days of its launch, earning it the privileged title of second place in the world after the 1.2 million circulation of American Vogue.

 

Chinese readers want to be part of the allure of international fashion, but they also desire to stay true to their cultural heritage and to develop the Chinese fashion industry and home-grown designers.  In the first edition of Chinese Vogue, four of China’s brightest design talent are featured including Shanghai based Wang Yiyang, regarded as among the most avant garde in China.

 

The models featured were mostly Chinese, with only glimpses of European faces. The front cover did however fuel controversy with the choice of Western model Gemma Ward, flanked either side with Chinese models.  I believe its purpose was to considerately reflect the marriage between the developing profile of Chinese fashion and the prominence of international fashion, which clearly constitutes the intent of this magazine.

 

Its success is no doubt inherent in its purpose, Vogue China is written in China for the Chinese market.

 

By Vikcy Hassett