Live from London Fashion Week – Day 3: The Old School meets the Brand Spanking New
19-02-2006
Remaining at the commercial end of the spectrum (and really what’s wrong with that – after all it’s the orders that count) Caroline Charles presented a perfectly polished show that was all about classic elegance. Key shapes ranged from tailored suits, waistcoats, wide-leg pants and velvet evening dresses. While her colour palette kept within the confines of autumnal shades such as chestnut, olive, chocolate, smoke and black. Charles gave a nod to global references with some of her silhouettes and styling details and this seasons installment will no doubt tempt some serious credit card action from her core clientele.
Entitled ‘A Brief Encounter’ Betty Jackson took us from day to night with sassy wardrobe staples and pieces to show-off in. By day masculine pants featuring low slouchy pockets, dropped waist knit dresses and boucle wool coats formed a chic and easy wardrobe. While by night it was all belted furs, slippery satin frocks along with a dusting of sequins and lace. Of course all could be mixed and matched to be worn at anytime, that’s the appeal of
{mosimage}You know Fashion Week is around the corner when the national glossies turn their attention to the very latest up & coming talent. It seems everyone wants to spot fashions ‘next big thing.’ On the list this time around is the likes of Gareth Pugh, Roksanda Ilincic and Richard Nicoll. Of course here at Fashion Capital we don’t miss a trick and noted Nicoll a few seasons ago when he first showed under the Fashion East umbrella. A manipulator of fabrics his clever tailoring and distinctive styling details have already developed into a trademark look. Sponsored by TopShop’s New Generation scheme Nicoll gained the attendance of several fashion big guns such as – Alexandra Shulman, Colin McDowell and Suzy Menkes and proceeded to show his range of masculine pants, pin-tucked silk chiffon blouses and slouchy shorts. Pumping up the volume and the layers as the show progressed this was true Nicoll aesthetic with a flash of bold colour thrown in.
All rise for the new queen of knit, and we are talking about knit in the unconventional sense. In fact many would be hard pushed to recognize as knit at all. Clare Tough combines a variety of techniques to create a collection that is full of unexpected textures and finishes. This season it’s her chain knit that’s commanding all the attention, it arrived as a trim on her fitted black dresses and long cardi coats. Elsewhere she showed off her skills with a multitude of knitting techniques within each design – from tiny fine gauge to open crochet styles. Tough combines her love of knit with sexy, grown-up silhouettes and muted shades. Key tones range from black, ecru, gold and grey while yarns incorporate silk, wool, synthetics and rubber. Clare Tough creates forward thinking, distinctive and yet wearable designs – bringing a much needed contemporary attitude into the realm of knitwear.
You’ve got to hand it to Central Saint Martins – that college seems to be a breeding ground for designer talent. Avshalom Gur is one such example, after graduating with distinction on his MA fashion course he freelanced for a range of fashion houses before launching his own label last year. Not afraid to experiment Gur shows tattered baby-doll dresses one minute followed by voluminous enveloping quilted numbers the next. From floaty and delicate to bold and in-your-face you get the feeling that Gur is open to new ideas no matter how outlandish. Add this to his scrawly prints and his collaboration with emerging artists – such as jewellery designer – Carol Wiseman and you just know there’s more great stuff on its way.
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Layering is turning out to be a huge trend for Autumn/Winter 2006/07. Designers left and right have been showing dresses over polo-necks or blouses – it seems to be the brand new uniform, along with black opaque tights and heels. Plus a knitted hat or beret to top it all off. Gharani Strok played the layering game and went distinctively dark this season. Brushing aside their usual bright and breezy prints the design duo embraced texture, layering and black a-plenty. From tulip skirts to fitted jerseys and double-breasted wool trench coats this collection was full of easy-to-wear seasonal must-haves for the rebellious femme fatale in us all.
Powerful and dramatic Aimee McWilliams is rapidly building on her unique signature style. Models sauntered and posed complete with tribal-esque make-up and extended ponytails that swished with every strut. Highlights included skinny pants, fitted dresses with tie-waist details and maxi bobble coats. One for contrasts the collection also contained plenty of geometric panelling, fur trims and textured knits. Black ruled at this show, although white, burgundy and silver also emerged from the collections deep, dark mix.
By JoJo Iles www.fashionpr.co.uk
