Day Three @LFW – Thursday 16th February
20-02-2006
Day Three
Thursday 16th February
Betty Jackson
Having recently developed a ridiculous verging on neurotic obsession for all things animal print, Betty Jackson’s sophisticated bell sleeved leopard print shearling saw me nearly blacklisted from London Fashion Week forever more; forcefully restrained by my neighbour from charging the runway and ripping it off the model.
In contrast to many of her British contemporaries, Jackson’s silhouettes were very fluid, with dropped waist flapper style dresses and loose shifts. Traditional tailored cropped jackets and pencil skirts were softened with modest flourishes of lace which echoed the demure femininity implicit in Victorian dress.
Flashes of vibrant colour striking through the collection complemented the more subdued beige and brown hues of tweeds and plaids. Fabulous satin print slip dresses with bold and bright flower patterns sashayed down the catwalk and an inspired neon pink 1980’s Dynasty style wool gauze skirt suit replaced the formal and modest implications of tailoring with a vivacious colour that exuded confidence.
Gharani Strok
Gharani Strok is the collaborative label of designers Nargess Gharani and Vanya Strok, whose successful partnership of nine years has awarded them increasing presence in the global fashion market and established them as a much anticipated part of London Fashion Week.
The collection was awash with dark hues; slate grey, rich chocolate brown and sultry black. If you took away one thing from the collection; it was that black is most definitely back for autumn/winter 06-07.
The collection outlined a slim, youthful silhouette, consumed by garments contemporary in their cut and ridiculously sexy in their style. It epitomised youth ideals of fashion; the desire to portray sexuality as opposed to femininity through dress.
With an emphasis on layering, contour hugging black chiffon underlay everything; wrapping itself around the unclothed skin. Simple slips, empire line dresses, tulip shaped skirts, double breasted trench coats and skinny trousers all captured the 1960’s spirit and glamorous style of Andy Warhol’s companion and muse Edie Sedgwick, who is the subject of the forthcoming movie Factory Girl staring Sienna Miller.
The ultimate accessory this forthcoming autumn/winter is elbow length black leather gloves; worn over garments for the ultimate in chic. Biker chic is about to come roaring back into town, so don your leathers and hit the highway.
Day Four
Friday 17th February
Bora Aksu
Like many of the collections seen on the catwalk this season, four times New Generation award winner Aksu, presented a collection rich in checks and tweeds. His response to their construction however, denoted an entirely different outcome. Exploring the movement and aesthetics of these heavy and very traditional fabrics, he combined them with the more fluid lines of silk tulle, cotton, chiffon and velvet.
Aksu’s enchanted romance with fashion is symbolised by his obsession for layering and combining fabrics. Crochet knit dresses draped with silk, heavy cotton and tweed panelled skirts, beautifully draped tulip shaped dresses and delicate filigree leather waistcoats worn with simple jersey tops. The outcome of combining these structurally and texturally diverse fabrics is the creation of refreshingly organic garments interpreted into contemporary silhouettes.
Emma Cook
Central St. Martins graduate Emma Cook produced an ultra feminine collection, where simple, loose silhouettes were combined withdelightful detailing. Shift dresses, empire line dresses and short dungarees wereadornedwith leather appliqué, ruffles, large ties, pleats and bows. The highlight of the collection were Forties style flapper dresses embellished with tiny mirrors.
The success of Cook’s collection is owed to the combination of simple garment shapes with her masterful attention for detail; the thoughtful precision behind each garment resulting in the creation of an exquisitely unique and enviably feminine collection.
Prints were also a very strong element of the collection, soft pastel hues capturing the fusion of colours as they swirl through water and a more delicate take on the infamous Pucci prints.
Day Five
Saturday 18th February
Tristian Webber
Having spent two seasons away from the catwalk, Tristian Webber’s show held at the Royal Academy of Arts was much anticipated and was complemented by the substantially overflowing auditorium.
Figure sculpting dresses detailed with starkly contrasting black and cream geometric panelling, reminiscent of 1960’s Courrèges slip dresses, remoulded the contours of the body to create a futuristic silhouette based on understated sexuality.
Webber’s initial proposition of classical shapes is overawed by his poetic juxtaposition of the contradictory qualities of leather, jersey and satin. It is this striking relationship that gives rise to a collection which is unusually wearable yet considerably avant-garde and unique.
By Vikky Hassett
