London Fashion Week – Day 5: Round
20-02-2006
There’s always a big fuss around the Central Saint Martins MA show – it’s all that ‘next big thing’ stuff it always gets the fash pack in a right tizz. Packed to the rafters the audience was like a who’s who of the fashion world – John Rocha, Jimmy Choo, TopShop’s Jane Shepherdson…the list goes on. Personal highlights included Molly Grad, whose puff ball hemlines, twists, folds and drapes are combined with a creative and yet subtle use of colour. As well as Lisa Pritchard’s textile designs that were all razzle dazzle in pleated layers of candy wrapper gold, purple and silver. The Harrods Award went to the closing grad – Christopher Kane, think lace, frills, 80’s Versace and body piercing and you’ll start to get the picture. The overall effect was quite tarty and certainly not for the shy but as a collection Kane displayed lots of ideas plus a move away from the current mood. Want to see the winning designs for yourself? Then check out Harrods windows from the 24th February onwards.
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Staying demure and sensible with a twist or two of course was Katarzyna Szczotarska. Hemlines hovered just above or below the knee and emphasis was placed on shape and proportion. Twisted bow bust details, Peter Pan collars and rolled hemlines provided some of the details on offer. Tones ranged from white, grey, teal, red and black while a sure hit was the bracelet sleeve wool coat that featured a three tiered collar. Much to our amusement (and the photographers) Katarzyna’s sensible chic was sexed up mid-show with a burlesque performer – Immodesty Blaze – who stripped off her blouse to reveal a pair of heart shaped nipple tassels. Ooh la la indeed.
The vibe over at Tristan Webber had a futuristic slant – in a Pierre Cardin 60’s sci-fi kind of way. Fitted polo necks, cape sleeve tops and glossy jodhpurs looked particularly striking with their patent inserts and graphic prints. Bold black and white ruled along with a touch of hot red and grey. Keeping forms fitted for the most part fluidity arrived as a chiffon layer here and a batwing sleeve there. Webber’s prints were particularly inspiring and sensitively placed while his enveloping quilted opera coats looked incredibly cosy without loosing the chic factor.
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Providing more in the way of strong graphic prints was
- Pleats
- Draping
- Short dresses worn over polo-necks or blouses
- Wide-leg trousers
- Belted Waists
- Exaggerated collars
- Black
- Accents of bold colour
- Simple repeated prints
- Leopard print
- Fitted jerseys
- Late 80’s early 90’s inspirations
- Berets and knitted hats
- Opaque tights
- Puff ball shapes
- Leggings
- Masculine tailoring
More key trends next month from
By JoJo Iles www.fashionpr.co.uk