Fashion Fights Back – By Becky Lyon
30-10-2006
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As usual, no major cultural or social shifts go unnoticed in the fashion industry and designers have attempted to reflect this new consumer attitude in three main ways. Firstly by taking inspiration from army, combat and fighting gear; secondly by the attire of the refugees and underdeveloped nations and thirdly, a return to the ‘grunge’ movement, a ‘fashion’ trend born itself out of a previous state of uncertainty during the early nineties recession.
The most obvious way to react in turbulent times is to provide your own armour, your own defensive costume. There were plenty of military references on the catwalk ranging from basic camouflage prints and khakis to re-constructed uniforms and threatening black PVC masks at Junya Watanabe to a more sexy and strong interpretation on the Belstaff and Proenza Schouler catwalks with leather jackets, PVC straps and skin tight dresses forming more of an ‘urban assasin’. Old fashioned military jackets (D&G) and WWII full length coats (Robert Cary-Williams) were similarly thrown in for good measure.
A new style of reactionary dress also made an appearance on the autumn runways; an affluent western interpretation of refugee/ Eastern European peasant attire. The colour palette is distinctly lacklustre featuring mainly neutrals, particularly grey shades, oversized loose shapes and wrapped layers offering protection. The best show case and pioneer of this trend was definitely Chloe. Wool sack dresses, pinafores layered over polo necks and enveloped in sheltering cloaks alongside and Sportmax’s floaty dress and chunky knit combinations.
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Finally, we see a return to grunge. The music born, anti-fashion movement from the early nineties partly created as a rebellion against eighties excess and a reaction to the likes of the Gulf and Cold wars. Marc Jacobs paid homage to his own past by sending looks down the catwalk that he himself created including; characteristic plaid dresses, chunky wool hats and fingerless gloves, layers and finished with iconic doc martens. At the same time, Prada provided their own brand of glamour grunge with slim fit jumpers and parkas.
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And if nothing else, could grey, the colour of the season be sending us a subliminal message? However, Autumn/Winter is by no means a depressive season, but an acknowledgement and interpretation of the world around us and a message that fashion will fight back.
By Becky Lyon
