Long Live Haute Couture

 

The king of the latter, Mr Galliano, pulled out all the stops for his tenth anniversary as creative director at the house of Christian Dior. And that wasn’t all; it was a double celebration as the house also reached its 60th birthday.

 

 

 

Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Shalom Harlow, it was a supermodel reunion; even those in semi-retirement will make an exception for a Dior couture show. The vision; Galliano opened with wasp-waisted chic silhouettes in homage to Dior’s pioneering ‘New Look’ back in 1947. As the collection progressed so did the references, of which there were plenty, but noticeably through-out was the influence of artists. From the Dutch Masters to the Pre-Raphaelites right up to 20^th Century illustrators, Galliano’s Autumn/Winter collection unfolded like an art history frock fest. Bustier dresses, swathes of rich fabrics and puffed tulles in painterly shades, Galliano it seems, designed a collection high on romance and nostalgia.

 

 

 

 

 

Elsewhere, Jean Paul Gaultier took the regal route with a feminine take on Prince Charming. Military embroidery, sashes, jodhpurs, epaulettes and crowns were the order of the day with more than a nod to the maharajas of India towards the second half of the show.

 

 

 

Armani kept his designs a-coming with his extensive Privé collection of sharp tailoring and 80s rock chic meets in-your-face neon colour. Of course he provided a smattering of Armani classics in monochrome shades ensuring something for everyone, but it was his hot fuchsias and styling a la Michael Jackson that caught the fashion packs attention.

 

 

 

Much talked about was Roland Mouret’s debut on the couture schedule. His media hyped new label – RM, saw 21 of his cut and drape origami-like pieces in muted shades. Elie Saab, meanwhile, stuck to what he does best; show stopping glamour fit for the red carpet. His collection was inspired by goddesses of the silver screen and will no doubt be worn by modern day sirens come film premieres and awards ceremonies.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Complete list of designers that showed Autumn/Winter 07/08 Couture Collections in Paris:

 

 

Anne Valerie Hash

Christophe Josse

Felipe Oliveira Baptista

Christian Dior

Chanel

On Aura Tout Vu

Christian Lacroix

Gustavo Lins

Eymeric Francois

Givenchy

Franck Sorbier

Carven

Jean Paul Gaultier

Elie Saab

Giorgio Armani Prive

Gerald Watelet

Lefranc Ferrant

Nicolas Le Cauchois

Roland Mouret – RM

Cathy Pill

Udo Edling

Adam Jones

Boudicca

Maison Martin Margiela

 

 

 

By JoJo Iles