Estethica Press Day, 22nd April 2010

The clue is in the name with Estethica, the British Fashion Council’s ethical and sustainable initiative, which has evolved to become the epicentre for London’s ethical fashion industry. The collections showcased are as much about design as their ethical credentials, something which is so often compromised with sustainable fashion. In an era where modern lifestyle continues to have a detrimental impact on the environment and fashion is increasingly influential, this sector of the fashion industry is thankfully gaining momentum.

Each season a new wave of designers are creating luxury garments and accessories from ethically sourced, newly re-engineered and organic materials, as well as recycled and up-cycled waste, either from the fashion industry or other sectors (including old parachutes and fire hoses). The collections presented for AW10 were inventive, stylish and original and did not disappoint.

The AW10 collection by Lu Flux, was certainly no exception with a range titled ‘Dame and Knight’ consisting of playful, humorous, colourful and at times illusory garments. The collection’s themes lie in the folklore of Britain, with garments made from upcycled redundant textiles alluding to jousters, dragons, lions and floral tapestry, presented in bold sculptural forms. This collection will tickle your inner child, with floral patchwork pieces which made this collection the one which excited me the most.

Another collection which stood out was Maxjenny‘s ‘Street Sculptures’. A collaborative work experimenting with the mix of fine art and outdoorwear in a very new way, made in recycled PET bottled fabric either painted in vivid waterbased colours (some of which are works produced by Maxjenny’s artist Mother) or made in black. It is a series of beautiful folded, draped and innovative jackets for all kinds of weather all year round. A piece of artwork in their own right, these poncho-style jackets would be just as well suited for a night out as well as a very chic visibility jacket for cyclists. Also by Maxjenny was the range ‘The New Black’.

Henrietta Ludgate, a Scottish luxury womenswear label, which has already garnered several awards lived up to its impressive reputation. Inspired by the darker side to the Scottish landscape, this season sees Henrietta’s signature minimalist and flattering cuts worked in thick, luxurious and comforting materials, all of which are produced in the UK. The collection strikes a perfect balance between sharp contouring and loose drapery, producing a silhouette for the forward thinking consumer.

Designer Ivana Basilotta, is the youngest brand at Estethica and one of the most promising. Her collection ‘Glamour Punk’ has a pretty and delicate appeal, made entirely from eco-sustainable fabrics. Many of the garments are made using organic peace-silk, which is manufactured in a process where silkworms are not killed, but the moths are allowed to emerge from their cocoons to live out their full life cycle. Apparently the best silk for warmth and therapeutic use, it is rare and not commercially available.

Another favourite in the eco fashion world is goodone, an award-winning label that designs and produces garments made from hand-picked upcycled fabrics. Their aim is to exceed expectations of what recycled fashion can be by creating clothing that is high-end and special without losing a wearable aesthetic. The collection certainly lived up to this, in a monochrome palette of varying shades, included quilting, crocheting, body-hugging and sports inspired outfits which are both very wearable and contemporary.

Minna, is also a rising label in the sustainable fashion industry, with its autumn/winter collection drawing inspiration from the classic 1950’s film noir period to reveal a sophisticated and urban collection. The result is a collection of day-to-night dresses in black tones and hand dyed shades of grey, that designer Minna Hepburn claims you can “just throw on in the morning (and) will carry you throughout the day.” Embellished with detachable necklaces, quirky details and plenty of lace, this collection is certainly one to watch.

In the accessories department, Michelle Lowe-Holder was a breath of fresh air. Already an established clothes designer, Michelle has moved into accessories for AW10, which is her first range to be entirely ethically produced. Her collection is titled ‘Ribbon Reclaim’, with pieces inspired by pin cushions, resulting in a beautiful range of belts, cuffs, necklaces and chest pieces. Chunky hardware closures contrast the beautifully intricate details of flocking, ribbon art and crochet, to create pieces which are feminine, unique and modern.

Other ethical designers selected by Estethica were Christopher Raeburn who moved into NEWGEN (sponsored by Topshop) this year, Tara Starlet, Sonya Kashmiri, By Stamo, Junky Styling, Emesha, Joanna Cave, Makepiece, Oria Jewellery, From Somewhere, Nina Dolcetti, Issi, Beautiful Soul, and the Environmental Justice Foundation.

All designers were highly innovative in this small, but growing part of the industry. With collections that prove fashion can be extremely wearable and creative, whilst being kind to both people and planet, it can only be a matter of time before ethical fashion breaks further into the mainstream.

By Tessa Ettinger