LFW 17th September 2010 – Jena Theo, Bunmi Koko, Jean Pierre Braganza and Bora Aksu
17-09-2010
I’m a huge fan of Jena Theo, last years fashion fringe winners showed at the BFC tent. The collection that felt very ‘Arabian inspired’
Models with hair wrapped in turbans slinked down the catwalk in silky jersey pieces, draped, gathered and twisted in a way synonymous with the Jena Theo style. It had a more grown up feel than last seasons look, right down to the sleek cut jeans.
The collection felt very ‘deconstructed’ there were slashed backs, twisted sides and garments in two toned overlaid fabrics, appearing like two separate garments had been merged together.
The garments really have to be seen to be believed but I loved the soft drapery, all the pieces were so well thought out with the manipulation being just right.
The colour palette was a mix of violet, grey denim, blush and dusky pink with cream and soft blues running through out.
Print wise, it was so soft and delicate. A cream based print, with an almost ‘my jeans have run in the wash’ blue print and marble/water colour in soft pastel hues.
I loved the way the softer pieces were toughened by divine, draped, leather, hooded jacket (I want) and cropped, slash back bomber styles. It really feels like SS11 will be the season of soft grunge. Far more romantic than we’ve ever seen it. The rock chicks have grown up.
Bunmi Koko
Shoulders had structural, upside down triangles built in, like oversized drapes and folds. Draped skirt sides and wrap over tulip shapes ensured that the separate skirts and dresses fitted with the mood of this coming season, but were so well executed they stood out a mile.
The style and theme was ‘warrior’ and when Kanye’s ‘Love Lockdown’ played at the end I was not at all surprised, it fitted with the music video style and the models were accessorised in feathered masks.
Each dress had so much detailing, yet none of it felt overdone. I loved the striped back panels that combined ribbon and sheer.
Trousers were total cigarette pant style. Super slim leg, teamed with the oversized shoulder drape jackets that fitted snuggly at the waist were great. The balance really worked.
I loved the colour palette too. This was mainly used to create bold, graphic prints. Red/white/black and chocolate/cream and ochre were the order of the day and the distorted graphics were gorgeous.
Smaller pompoms were used on shoulders and as wrist adornments and looked fun without being comical.
By far the favourite show of the day!
Jean Pierre Braganza
Soft and sophisticated with an authoritative edge was what Jean Pierre Braganza gave us. A palette of soft pastels with accents of turquoise and deep rose pink. Fluidity ran throughout the collection with plenty of draping and the use of silk to create flowing maxis, reed slim trousers and micro minis. Structured dresses made from contrasting leather and suede were looking fierce! Let’s hope that PCD girl Kimberley Wyatt and front girl of Noisettes Shingai Shoniwa liked it as much as we did!
Bora Aksu
As expected, the Bora Aksu show, which this year moved to OnOff was rammed! In the crowd was tones of press and even fellow Blow designer, Avsh Shalom Gur.
There was a nod to the Rococo era, with a floral like weave, again playing on silver tones.
The main colour palette was navy and dark grey accented by pink, silver and red tones.
While skirts and dresses were the basis for the collection, soft trousers with ruffled and pussy bow blouses were a far softer look than we are used to seeing from Aksu.
Another fabulous collection, that yet again made silk and chiffon fierce.
