GFW – Edinburgh College of Art

Bright colour was a reoccurring theme during their show– be it the sunset and sea foam shades of Hannah Cumming’s opening “Hija” collection or the jewel tones of Fiona Somerville’s knit wear.

Eclecticism and minimalism were present in equal measure, from the riotous creative chaos of Bertram May’s digital batik-inspired prints and Barbra Kaolsinski’s Polish inspired ribbon stripes to the serene simplicity of David Vallance’s luxurious black shirt.

Sarah Ho’s “Rapture” screamed for attention with cartoon colours, form-fitting dresses and flashes of red wrapping around the body. The architectural shapes flattered whilst the colours gave an injection of fun and frivolity.

Wearable knitwear was high on the agenda, with Pamela Hill and Zoe Clarke offering knits to cocoon and embellish. Hill’s collection featured motifs based on interior details such as cornices and wood carving, beading worked alongside intriguing shapes to create intricate and shimmering pieces. Clarke presented cosy sweaters in icy white, navy and mint. Snug hoods were edged with fluffy trims to give a stylish take on Inuit inspired clothing.

Vivid blue was the staple colour in Emma Clifton’s collection. A striking sky blue was punctuated with mischievous flashes of lime, pink and yellow. The silhouettes varied from mannish tailoring through to playful voluminous tulle prom gowns.

Kyle Graham Spires cleverly combined leather, suede, pleats and structured tops. Unlikely colour pairings such as oxblood and fuchsia stood out against precise long pleats. A mustard full length gown featured tiers of pleats and a leather harness bodice.

Leather was also used to great effect in Laura De Barra’s collection. Here navy and cream striped knits were falling from shoulders. Brown leather straps kept everything in place, providing an refreshing and not-so nautical take on simple stripes.

Menswear was offered by Felix Chabluk Smith. His tailoring bore distinctive contrasting panels, most effective in his take on the traditional trench.

“Function, Schmunction: Brr…” by Anika Hőppel was a witty take on tourist style. The collection was ideal for sight seeing with soft shapes and textures. Jackets were designed to be shrugged on and off with ease. Sleeves were gathered into distinctive deep cuffs and accessories had additional tourist functionality – camera belts and necklaces designed to store as well as adorn.

Edinburgh College of Art produced a show of consistently desirable collections. Come rain or shine, it was something special.

Jenny Evans