GFW – University of Salford

When taking my seat at the Salford show I was greeted by a cryptic note containing some lyrics from Nirvana’s “Smells like Teen Spirit” in a David Shrigley scrawl. Was this show going to be a homage to Seattle grunge? A love letter to generation-X’s disaffected youth? I hoped not. That would have been dull.

I was relieved to discover that the note was a prelude to a short film by Jonathan Flanders called “The American Dream”. It was an eerie poetic piece combining a children’s choral rendition of Nirvana’s 1991 classic and recordings of police calls made on the day of the notorious Colombine High School massacre.

Admittedly, the film did little to quash my fears of an impending flannel shirt fest. Thankfully, Anh Hoang came along with her day-glo frills, froth and dangly bits. Her streamer trimmed leotards looked fit for a superhero, or at least a female Lucha Libre star. The sparkly shoes with ankle ruffles   managed to kick any remaining thoughts of American dystopia firmly to the kerb.

Hoang’s “look at me” creations were followed Kerri McGill’s  stark, all-white menswear collection which, according to the show notes, was “inspired by Gandalf the white wizard”.  She may well have had Middle Earth in mind, but for me the overall effect was far more reminiscent of the “The Matrix”. Dramatic long white coats billowed behind the models and severe ankle-skimming tunics flapped around their legs.

There was a collective “aaahhh!” from the audience when Leanne Haggerty’s children’s wear paraded down the runway. It was all about candy colours, tutus and adorable PVC rain macs. Oh, and the mini-models were super-cute.

Continuing the cuteness, albeit this time on an adult scale, Amy Ridley’s “Inupiat (Real People)” collection provided a sweet tribute to the Inupiat tribe of Alaska. Nature was the key theme, with yellow flowers embroidered above the hem of a red full-skirt and grass green worn with glacial blue chambray. Furry hoods provided the most obvious nod towards the Arctic Circle.

Esther Ndongala’s culture clashing collection featured an eye-catching and colourful feather print. It was deftly combined with real feathers and chic shades of grey in a collection that reflected the Italian and African heritage of the designer.

Next up was Olivia Deeney’s breathtaking collection of vintage inspired gowns. Her collection had the feel of a stroll around a stately home – with rich furnishings reflected in the floral tapestry fabrics and the twinkling chandeliers apparent in the liberal use of crystal droplets. Her first look was the attention grabber – a strapless tapestry gown that fell into a fountain of marabou champagne froth from the upper thigh.

The audience all tried hard not to giggle upon the arrival of James Pilcher’s “Guerilla” collection. The intention may well have been to shock and subvert society’s pesky norms but there’s always something ridiculous about the sight of a man dressed in a gorilla suit, no matter how snazzy his red sequinned blazer happens to be.

Charlotte Waters grabbed the crowds attention with her far more subtle attempt to challenge perceptions. She created an accomplished knitwear collection, using nothing but the remnants of obsolete technology. Wires were knitted into smart Chanel style shifts and jackets, whilst VHS tape was transformed into sinuous gowns.

Love was in the air for Kerri Goulden. Her collection reflected on the first throes of romance – long days spent snuggled under the duvet and the daydreaming and hair twiddling of young love. There were jumpers that looked as if they had been plaited together using the manes of My Little Ponies and an eiderdown skirts worn with a flirty bra top.

The show closed with Nicola Bream’s confident use of print in her collection based on the Russian Constructivist art and architectural movement. Rectangular blocks of purple, white, mustard and green were tiled across dresses, jackets and skirts. Shapes were simple; a jewel green bell skirt here, a sharp sleeveless blouse there.

Salford’s show was intelligent, fun and exciting. It had moments of madness and moments of brilliance, there were even moments when the two combined to create the very best sort of brilliant madness. It was a show fitting for the winners of 2011 British Fashion Council Portfolio Award. Forget teen spirit, at Salford things smell like success.