London Collections: Men S/S 2014
This time last year, the British Fashion Council launched London Collections: Men (LC: M), a dedicated bi-annual platform for British menswear designers. Three seasons in and the event already feels like a well-oiled boutique show. Held at The Hospital Club, designer showrooms are split over several floors while the basement provides installation / show space.
The Hospital Club – London Collections: Men HQ
It seems the time has never been more right for menswear. Milan and Paris have always had dedicated menswear schedules and, indeed, London has attempted to join them in the past but financial restrictions led to cancelled shows and disappointments. That was back in the early 90’s and now, fortunately, the situation is very different, not only does the event have fantastic backing from the British Fashion Council and sponsorship from the likes of Mayor of London, European Regional Development Fund, GQ and American Express amongst others, but menswear, particularly in the designer sector, has seen an upward turn – despite the recession. Growth in menswear is predicted to continue according to leading market analysts and celebration was certainly in evidence at this seasons (LC: M).
LC: M the showrooms at The Hospital Club
Coinciding with Day 1 Dolce & Gabbana opened their new London store on New Bond Street attracting plenty of pap ops and a special appearance from pop princess Kylie. Further celebrations included a dinner hosted by Dylan Jones & Tracey Emin and parties courtesy of Tom Ford, Details Magazine, and Esquire & Jimmy Choo amongst others.
Ada + Nik
Day 1 saw a launch debut from Ada + Nik (a new menswear brand by designer Ada Zanditon and fashion creative Nik Thakkar. The minimalistic monochrome S/S 14 collection consists of eel skin t-shirts, leather detailed shorts, structured dress shirts as well as a statement biker jacket and leather detailed kilt. Inspired by sportswear luxe and clean silhouettes the event, set in the St Martins Lane Hotel, also included a set from VV Brown and her new album; Samson & Delilah.
Designer heavyweights Tom Ford and Alexander McQueen were joined for the first time by Burberry, Jimmy Choo, Pringle of Scotland and Rag & Bone cementing London’s growing reputation as a menswear capital. While heritage brands such as Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy Amies and Oliver Spencer brought the best of British tailoring to the party.
Trends emerging for S/S 2014 include the likes of minimal monochrome palettes as seen at Rag & Bone and Ada + Nik, 3-D wire mesh graphics at Christopher Kane, cropped denim and animal print knits at Sibling and a country boy mood at Topman. Clean lines and boxy cuts went across the board while trousers felt loose and relaxed compared to previous seasons.
A new take on sportswear by Nasir Mazhar – LC: M Fashion Forward Designers
LC: M wraps up today (Tuesday 18th) with shows from Paul Smith, James Long, Christopher Raeburn and Burberry.
More from the Men’s shows coming to FashionCapital soon…