LFW S/S 14: Fashion Scout’s ‘Ones To Watch’
With Helen Lawrence stepping up first, and staying true to her form with a showcase of unconventional fabrics including clear PVC, knitted wool and felt. The tailored pieces were careful deconstructed with gaps and large stitching that zigzagged unpredictably across the collection, and looked as if it has been pieced together with melted plastic.
The Central Saint Martins graduate who studied under Alexander McQueen and Mark Fast revealed a palette of lime green, various shades of grey and black across a unique range of fabrics and materials, including white paint.
Next up was Hannah Williams, inspired by sculptor Daniel Arsham, her ability to mould latex rubber is astounding, fresh and relevant. The palette featured feminine colours of pale pinks, whites and greys which contrasted perfectly with the heavy material
A trench coat was engraved across one, while a bag was carried elsewhere. With the detail of buttons, pockets, seams and lapels being carved onto the rubber, an extremely impressive skill to say the least.
Closing the show was Renli Su, who continues to explore the theme of ‘time and memory’ as she did for her AW13 collection. Here, she expands on her discovery by finding inspiration in “the connection between the lives of working-class women during the Victorian era and the clothes they worked in.”
The palette was built on earthy shades, as well as dark blues and blacks with loose silhouettes that opt for comfort and fine craftsmanship. The looks were finished with knitted woollen and crochet bonnets pulled down over the models eyes. By using raw fabrics such as 100% organically sourced cotton and linens, Su believes her pieces will create a relationship between the wearer and the garment, one that will evolve and change over time.
An extremely talented trio of young designers that will be sure to make their mark on the fashion industry in very different ways, and just like the title says, they’re certainly Ones To Watch.
By Ashleigh Kane