London Collections: Men SS15 Jonathan Saunders & Moschino

JONATHAN SAUNDERS

With always depicting such a great relationship between the two collections, Jonathan Saunders proceeded to show his Resort collection and his menswear for Spring 2015 in unison.

The British designer looked to eighties Italian interiors combined with the work of Ettore Sottsass which was reflected in his mustard, beige and brown stripes and graphic lines. As well as this, Saunders draw inspiration from Italian design magazines such as Domus and Casa Vogue in the seventies, depicting the lush mood of the hyper-sophisticated world. Emphasis was on the brashly luxe, gold, bronze and silver tonal palette.

In contrast, we also witnessed a glimpse of space age echoed in metallic fabrications seen on coats, pinstripe shirts, dresses and Chelsea boots. The futuristic vibe was also displayed through dark charcoal prints, reminiscing a star-filled outer space and images of crackled meteor rain decorated gold-flecked trousers.

 Saunders focused on a refinement of what he has been doing, and that’s his ability of developing textiles, which he considers an important aspect of the collection. He stated “I wanted to focus on, ‘how can I refine my brand? How can it develop? – And yet still maintain its identity?” His eye for detail is what he spent the majority of his time on whilst creating; the knitwear construction, the bonded fabrics, the prints and colours were all vital elements that shone throughout.

 

 

MOSCHINO

Fashion folk can forever rely on Moschino to deliver an overwhelming sense of infectious joy to catwalk proceedings, and the Spring/Summer 2015 menswear proved to be no exception, with an abundance of all that is youthful, fun and a dose of tongue-in-cheek art of appropriation.

This was Jeremy Scott’s menswear debut for the label that also included a mighty measure of womenswear resort that featured a sense of logo mania or, if you prefer, ‘pop’ fashion on acid. Scott’s intention for the collection was to bring back the 80’s, and along with that comes logos, vibrancy and a whole load of electric postmodern humor. This was seen in his own counterfeit vocabulary including replacing Moschino’s ‘S’ with dollar signs, the use of acid house smilies, seizure-inducing flag prints and re-appropriated soda cans. There was undoubtedly lashings of fashion wit seen on T-shirts, sweatshirts, and caps emblazoned with “Homiès,” “Céline me alone,” and “Ballinciaga.”

The collection reflected a relevant culture of good old-fashioned, carefree fun, essentially acting as a testament to how much Scott’s vision of Moschino is tuned in to young people’s commercial receptiveness. Opening with a psychedelic suit and ending with another suit, whilst in-between a beach party erupted with a marvelously miscellaneous showcase of sexy models parading various states of undress! The show closed with a series of attires that featured dollar signs in gold embroidery, indicating that this was luxury.

By Katie Farley