Greenpeace Praises Eco
The most eco-friendly brands categorised as ‘avant-garde’ were H&M, Benetton and Inditex. The avant-garde category is for the ‘companies that are ahead of the field, leading the industry towards a toxic free future, with credible timelines, concrete actions and on-the-ground implementation.’ These three companies were praised for ‘leading the industry towards a toxic-free future’ being the only three apparel firms to be on track to clean up their chains as promised by 2020. Head of the Detox My Fashion campaign at Greenpeace Germany, Kristen Brodde said, ‘We applaud H&M, Zara, and Benetton for leading the way and setting a new standard in toxic-free fashion.’ She also added: ‘these companies prove that cleaning up the fashion industry is possible – both for large and medium-sized companies.’
In contrast, other brands have been placed into two separate categories: ‘Evolution Mode’ and ‘Faux Pas’. The ‘Evolution Mode’ category is for ‘companies [who] are committed to Detox and have made process implementing their plans, but their actions need to evolve faster to achieve the 2020 Detox goal.’ Greenpeace have put 12 companies into this, with well- known companies such as Adidas, M&S and Levis. However, within this middle section some brands are ranked higher than others, whilst Mango and G-Star have been ranked higher for example because they have better chemical management, Primark and Burberry are found to be lower ranked because they may not be banning enough hazardous chemicals. Whilst the ‘Faux Pas’ is categorised for ‘companies which originally made a Detox commitment but are currently heading in the wrong direction, failing to take individual responsibility for their supply chain’s hazardous chemical pollution.’ Brands such as Espirit and Nike have been criticised and placed into this because they have failed to do what the campaign aims.
‘Our assessment shows that the textile industry as a whole is not doing enough to go toxic-free. 16 out of the 19 brands assessed are stumbling over transparency issues or failing to eliminate toxic chemicals; with only three years left they must speed up now if they’re to meet their 2020 deadlines,’ said Brodde.
The overall goal is to demand fashion brands to commit to zero discharge of all hazardous chemicals by 2020 and requires their suppliers to disclose the releases of toxic chemicals from their facilities to communities at the site of the water pollution.
By Shivanee Tailor