Don’t be another Dee – free manufacturer workshops available!

The supplier is one major area that is fraught with many problems and designers must adopt best working practices to make sure that mistakes are kept to a minimum and production is right first time.

 

It is the production unit, either a CMT (Cut, Make and Trim specialist) or a manufacturer (i.e. a unit that also commits to buying the fabric on your behalf, provides a design service and sometimes has a sale’s team too) that can actually break your business. Take the example of Designer Dee. Dee called recently to explain that her CMT unit was refusing to give her the stock of her skirts until full payment was received. However, Dee explained that the skirts were cut to the incorrect length and therefore she should not have to pay the full amount.

How did this situation arise?

Dee had a series of small orders from ten local boutiques for a bias cut skirt in a ratio pack of sizes 10-18 1-2-2-1-1 for a total of 120 pieces.

The CMT unit charged quite a high price £18 per skirt but Dee agreed to the price and reduced her margin. Dee approved the first fit, went through the first part of the sealing procedure i.e. Red Seal and then six of the buyers asked for the length to be shortened to 62 cm under band. Dee then rang up the CMT unit explained all of the changes. The CMT unit then agreed to reduce the length and Dee was a happy bunny. Dee then rang up the buyers to explain that everything was under control and that the length had been duly shortened. MARVELLOUS!

 

 

However when Dee went to approve the black seal and measured the length of the skirts she was aghast! The length was not 62cm under band it was 58 cm under band and the CMT unit had cut the skirt to be a total length of 62cm including the waistband.

Dee freaked, the CMT unit was cursing saying that Dee had insisted on the length being a total of 62cm and there was absolute stalemate. Dee contacted the buyers to explain that there was a problem – regardless to say the buyers freaked even more and the order was cancelled from six of the boutiques.

What went wrong?

Miscommunication between Dee, the designer, and the unit. This happens all the time. When you are working with the manufacturers on production issues a phone call is NOT enough. Go there yourself and explain in person.

Also such a fundamental change needed a new seal, the sealing procedure should have been re instigated or at least a new sample made.

Communication should have been reinforced with an email complete with line drawing clearly showing new measurements or faxed. Remember so many units do not have computers and email addresses so you need to be able to use a fax if required.

 

 

What happened to Dee?

Basically she went out of business. She had put all her savings into buying the fabric, producing a mini brochure, undertaking the cold calling and the visits and out of a total of over 500 units of sales the cancelled orders finished her off. This is quite common too so be aware! There was an almighty row with the CMT unit, the unit refused to give over the stock, Dee could not pay for the stock knowing that she could not sell it to the buyers and after unsuccessfully going to the County Courts Dee gave up the fight and ceased trading.

How do you reach a compromise?

Some designers automatically think that they can sue manufacturers and CMT units for breach of contract and those that have tried to resolve the problems this way just find that they have even more aggravation to contend with, some manufacturers just fold and cease trading!

The only real way out of this is to tackle the problem with the manufacturer and CMT unit directly. You can’t add on fabric to a skirt unless the skirt has the type of disposition to have a trim attached on and then you would have to make a sample to show the buyer. The best situation here is that the CMT takes some responsibility with the order and agrees to reduce the make price of the skirt. You go back to the buyer with the reduced price and try to re-sell the skirt to the buyer with an improved margin.

DON’T LET THIS HAPPEN TO YOU. If Dee had followed standard procedures when working with a manufacturer in the first place this would not have occurred and Dee could be trading today. All this mess could have been averted and designers don’t always really understand the full workings of a CMT unit and manufacturer. That’s why we are delighted to offer our free Manufacturers Appreciation Workshop!

Commencing in January 2007, the sister company to www.fashioncapital.co.uk, www.fashion-enter.com,

 

 

is holding a series of workshops for designers.

The series of workshops will accurately explains how to work with production units, what exactly is the sealing procedure, what is the paper trail required to work with manufacturers and also have the chance to visit TopShop’s head office and have a meeting with the head of production to understand first hand the problems of working with manufacturers and how to avert them.

If you are interested in attending this free workshop please contact vanessa@fashion-enter.com immediately. Places are limited and will be apportioned on a first come first served basis. These are the postal codes if you fall within these regions please email Vanessa asap!

City Fringe – borough postcodes

 

 

Camden:   N19 Dartmouth Park   NW1 Camden Town Primrose Hill Regent’s Park Somers Town   NW3 Belsize Park Hampstead Swiss Cottage   NW5 Cospel Oak Kentish Town   NW6 Kilburn South Hampstead West Hampstead   NW8 Lisson Grove St. John’s Wood   W1 Fitzrovia Soho   WC1 Bloomsbury Kings Cross St. Pancreas

Hackney:   E2 Haggerston   E5 Clapton Hackney Marshes Lea Bridge Lower Clapton Upper Clapton   E8 Dalston Hackney   E9 Hackney Hackney Wick Homerton South Hackney Victoria Park   E15 Clapton Park   EC2 Shoreditch   N1 De Beauvoit Town Hoxton Shoreditch   N16 Shacklewell Stanford Hill Stokle Newington

Islington:   EC1 Clerkenwell Finsbury St Lukes   N1 Angel Barnsbury Canonbury Clerkenwell Islington Pentonville   N5 Highbury   N7 Holloway Lower Holloway   N19 Archway Tufnell Park Upper Holloway   WC1 Kings Cross

Tower Hamlets:   E1 Mile End Shadwell Shoreditch Stepney Wapping Whitechapel   E2 Bethnal Green Shoreditch   E3 Bow Bromley Mile End Old Ford   E14 Cubitt Town Isle of Dogs Limehouse Millwall Poplar

Don’t be another Dee – make sure you are organised and ready for your orders to be successfully produced, on time, at the right price and be able to sleep at night!

Jennifer Holloway