London Fashion Week SS27: The Shows, Designers and Moments to Watch

London Fashion Week returns tomorrow, 17th September, with McQueen, Mulberry, Burberry, Simone Rocha, M&S and a new generation of designers set to take over the capital.

Running from 17th – 21st September, the SS27 edition brings together some of Britain’s biggest fashion names, emerging talent, international labels, major retailers and a growing programme of fashion-meets-art experiences.

There is plenty to look forward to, from major creative-director debuts to NEWGEN talent and, perhaps most significantly, the arrival of high street stalwart Marks & Spencer on the official schedule.

Vin + Omi Start The Party

Eco-punk design duo Vin + Omi got the party started early with Anarchy, their SS27 show at art’otel Hoxton on Sunday.

True to form, the designers turned waste into the raw material for fashion experimentation. One of the collection’s standout developments was a new spongy wood-nettle hybrid, combining waste nettles with trimmed cork-barked oak branches. The material became a striking long cream gown.

Garden and estate waste also featured throughout the collection, alongside recycled and salvaged materials. Plastic collected through clean-up initiatives was transformed into embellishment and sequins, while other pieces were created from clothing sourced through charity shops and military channels.

The catwalk cast was equally unexpected. Roger Taylor, Alison Hammond, Jane Moore, and Vin + Omi regulars – Dame Prue Leith and Jo Wood were among the celebrity models, turning the show into something closer to a inclusive performance than a conventional catwalk.

The message was unmistakably Vin + Omi: fashion can be experimental, theatrical and desirable while challenging what we consider waste.

McQueen Makes Its London Debut Under Seán McGirr

One of the biggest moments of the official schedule comes on the opening day, when McQueen returns to London Fashion Week.

Creative director Seán McGirr will present his first London show for the house, covering both womenswear and menswear for SS27.

After the return of several major British names to the London calendar, McQueen’s show is set to be one of the week’s key fashion moments and an important opportunity to see how McGirr’s vision translates to a London audience.

Christopher Kane Takes On Mulberry

Another major debut comes from Christopher Kane, who will present his first collection for Mulberry. The return of Mulberry under Kane adds another layer of anticipation to a season already packed with creative-director change and renewed attention on British fashion houses.

Alongside Mulberry and McQueen, the schedule includes a formidable line-up of established names including Burberry, Simone Rocha, Erdem, Emilia Wickstead, Roksanda, Richard Quinn, Harris Reed and Barbour.

There is also plenty of fashion’s more rebellious side, with Chopova Lowena, KNWLS, Ashley Williams, Aaron Esh and Paolo Carzana returning to the schedule.

M&S Join The Official Schedule

Perhaps the most talked-about newcomer will be Marks & Spencer. The British high-street giant is making its London Fashion Week debut during its centenary year in fashion, bringing a “see now, buy now” womenswear and menswear collection to the official schedule. 

The collection will be available through M&S online, its flagship stores across the UK and selected international markets. The show will also be streamed, taking the LFW experience beyond the traditional fashion-week audience.

It is an interesting moment for an industry increasingly focused on accessibility, immediacy and the relationship between runway and retail. M&S has already been experimenting with spectacle, following its summer show and a runway staged in the pit lane at the British Grand Prix at Silverstone.

The Next Generation To Note

For FashionCapital readers, however, some of the most interesting names may be the designers still building their businesses.

This season’s NEWGEN line-up includes: Francesca Lake, Gui Rosa and Petra Fagerström, while returning recipients include Charlie Constantinou, E.W.Usie, Liza Keane, Octi, Oscar Ouyang, Pauline Dujancourt, The Ouze and Yaku.

Fashion East is also returning to the schedule, reinforcing the importance of talent development within the London fashion sector. While Fashion Scout, celebrating their 20th anniversary, will add their 3-day schedule packed with creative brands from across the globe.

New names joining the wider schedule include British menswear label Geordie Campbell, designer Joyce Bao, Indian label Lovebirds and demi-couture brand Onalaja. The presence of Birmingham City University also puts the spotlight on emerging talent from outside London, reflecting the increasingly important role of regional fashion education and creative communities. 

As Laura Weir, chief executive of the British Fashion Council, puts it, this season brings together “established houses, emerging designers and industry partners” on a platform intended to shape fashion’s future.