Nadia Clark – fashion report

 

TROUSERS IN TOKYO

 

 

 

 

Marc Jacobs is inspired by them, Louis Vuitton gets them to design handbags and Gwen Stefani can’t live without them. Who am I talking about? Why, Harajuku girls of course! Gwen has just announced her first solo tour, which kicks off in Arizona this October and is titled ‘The Harajuku Lovers 2005 Tour’. She rarely goes anywhere without her 4 Japanese babes, named Love, Angel, Music, Baby (after her debut solo album) and she has claimed that they have inspired her and encouraged her to ‘express her true musical ability’.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For those of you not in the know, Harajuku, to the north of Shibuya and located in Shibuya-ku, is an area in the centre of Tokyo. Tokyo is without a geographical centre and many sub-districts compete to be the nucleus of the metropolis. However, it is Harajuku which is at the heart of the youth of Tokyo and the heart of the fashionistas. The district became well-known in the 1960’s and in particular 1964 when the Olympics were held in the city. Since then, it has become a shopper’s paradise. The main attraction is Takeshita Street, which is a narrow pedestrian street full of quirky boutiques which is always bustling and vibrant. At the other extreme, the Omotesando is a broad avenue, sometimes referred to as Tokyo’s Champs-Elysees, which is lined with trees and greets you as you step out of Harajuku station.

 

Sunday is the best day to visit the city. This is when the Cosplay (Costume Play) tribes stake out the bridge over the Yamanote line at Harajuku station. This is where you see the cutting edge of Tokyo fashion and walking mannequins provide inspiration to those in desperate need of colour, vibrancy and life. It couldn’t be further from the glamour of Italy or French classicism. Over the past 20 years, Japanese teenagers have developed a sub-culture obsessed with dressing-up, costumes and cartoons. After school and at the weekends, guys and girls walk the streets of Harajuku and Yoyogi Park, near the Meiji Shrine in full dress, posing for photographs and lapping up the constant tourist attention. It appears at the moment that the main influences for these kids are Manga cartoons, Anime characters and the Gothic Lolita look.

 

For the Gothic Lolita Look, think Britney Spears in her ‘Hit Me Baby One More Time’ video, crossed with Marilyn Manson.

 

 

 

 

 

Baby-doll dresses, frilly panties and knee-high socks in bubble-gum colours mixed with deep red lips, thick, black eye-make-up and chunky leather platform shoes. Heavy make-up and hair pieces complete these outrageous outfits. Teenagers spend their free-time scouring vintage stores and small, independent boutiques looking for retro night-wear and 70’s glitter platforms. Check out the vintage 1950’s pink frilly bed jacket I have in my online boutique – perfect for any little Lolita!

 

 

 

 

This look is a mix of raw sexuality and child-like innocence and is quite unnerving, especially when seen in the flesh!

 

 

 

Those influenced by the Anime and Manga cartoons love the neon bright colours, stripy tights, clashing prints and wacky accessories, making them look at worst, like eager extras from a low budget sci-fi movie and at best, like the fashion inspiration they are.

 

 

Many of these fashions are mixed with traditional Japanese national dress including obis, kimonos and getas which add an unusual twist to these super modern styles. Have a look at the amazing 1920’s silk kimono I have available in my online boutique and think about mixing it with some acid green pvc platforms and some fluro pink fleece dungarees. Not quite your style?

 

 

Very few can pull off this look except for the natives themselves; however, it doesn’t stop other people using aspects of their looks in their own work.

 

For example, British artist Antony Micallef has a wonderful painting called the ‘Girls of Harajuku’ which captures the child-like essence of the teenagers. Australian artist Lizi Morris has also been influenced by these Japanese girls, especially the Lolita types and has named her collection ‘Harajuku Gothics’.

 

 

 

At last month’s Graduate Fashion Week, which took place at Battersea Park Arena, there were elements of Harajuku fashion influencing the final collections of the fresh and funky designers from Northumbria University (my old uni!!).

 

Next season, there is a subtle hint of Harajuku on the catwalks. Marc for Marc Jacobs has introduced girlish pom-pom accessories in contrast to his funky, chunky heels and Anna Sui has remained true to her signature style with her velvet dolly dresses and wildly patterned hosiery. In addition, menswear designers are jumping on the bandwagon too. Since its inception in 2001, Philosophy Men have been challenging men’s fashion with their edgy line and each collection has been based on the adopted style of a chosen country. This season, yes you’ve guessed it, is Japan. They have studied the guys strolling around Harajuku with their punk, Goth and hip-hop influences and the metrosexual look of Japanese footballers who have manicures, facials and have their eye-brows shaped without shame. Think Philosophy kimono style tops with Japanese motifs over neutral tees and graphic print shorts.

 

So if you’re thinking about buying a ticket for Miss Stefani’s show when she hits these shores next year, get more inspiration for your gig outfit from Shoichi Aoki’s new book ‘Fresh Fruits’ who shows us a collection of over 260 photographs of these amazingly creative and eccentric teenagers. Trust me, it makes for fascinating viewing.

 

 

 

Nadia Clark

 

 

Joe Prince

www.joeprince.co.uk