London Fashion Week – day 1 and 2
23-09-2005
Amanda Wakeley kicked off my London Fashion Week catwalk diary, with a sensational spring/summer 2006 collection. Her philosophy, for ‘simple ideas expressed strongly’, was effectively captured in this truly feminine collection, which oozed sophistication and elegance.
There was a fantastic mix of a soft feminine silhouette, draped in lengths of delicate chiffon, successfully contrasted with the strict, formal lines of tailored light-weight jackets. The contrast in line and form was perfectly complimentary.
The colour palette was largely neutral. Subtle animal prints and dusky mink dominated the collection, whilst injections of more vibrant and contrasting colours emphasized key elements of the garments. Some pieces appeared to draw inspiration from the jungle, with splashes of dark green and orange leather contrasting the delicately draped silk and chiffon.
There was an emphasis running through the collection on banded stripes of colour, with suede bands cutting diagonally across silk dresses, juxtaposing elements of formality with loose flowing lines. Jackets and dresses were fastened and tied in bows that wrapped delicately around the body.
Other key pieces included; sassy shorts teemed with strapy sandals. Layered chiffon dresses sweeping the floor. Kimono inspired wrap tops. Heavily draped sleeves on jackets, finishing at elbow length. And what no collection is without; modest sprinklings of Swarovski crystals.
Her all-in-one swimwear pieces reflected the key features of the collection. Light animal printed fabric was seen wrapped across and around the body, almost as if it were a bandage, in a rather natural take on the often overtly sexualized appearance of swimwear.
There is a rare subtlety to Wakeley’s clothes that continue to make her collections so strong. They are indulgently sensual and feminine yet never overtly sexual.
Day 2 at London Fashion Week
GHOST
Reminiscent of Victorian petticoats and underwear, there was a beautiful simplicity to this innocently youthful and feminine collection. Layered chiffon and light cotton in pale candy colours of primrose, peppermint, pink and lilac, floated down the catwalk. Fabrics were enriched with subtle embroidery and sequined flower patterns, and broiderie anglaise.
Key items included; crop trousers, khaki shorts, bloomer style pants and fitted crop jackets. Chiffon dresses fell to raw, frayed edges or frills.
Garments were accessorized with camel tone belts, worn high around the waist to accentuate the hourglass silhouette.
BETTY JACKSON
After such a captivating morning at Ghost, Betty Jackson’s show was rather an anti-climax, to what I had believed would be one of the highlights of my LFW. There were times when I actually felt bored and sat wondering what to write in my notebook.
The collection was dull in colour and style and lacked even a degree of innovation or freshness. The colour pallette was subdued hues of creams, blacks and browns, and featured paisley and flower patterned garments that more resembled the wallpaper in my Grandma’s house than a high fashion garment.
Some of the highlights, included; oversized buttons on jackets, low crotches on trousers, oriental inspired silk embroidery and peacock-esque patterned silk. The fantastic vivid orange platform shoes laced with ribbon, were the highest point of the collection, yet even they are likened to Westwood’s trademark platforms.
Jackson is prided for her wearable clothes, and I cannot deny that what I saw today was wearable (to those who choose to), but LFW for me should be about witnessing designers creating exciting, innovative fashion and challenging existing boundaries and codes of dress, not rehashing and reinforcing old styles.
UNCONDITIONAL
Unconditional was my first off schedule show and also my first to showcase men’s and womenswear.
The small venue made it much more intimate than the larger shows, and allowed you to really appreciate the intrinsic detail of the garments.
The style could be described as ‘urban chic’, and confronted masculine and feminine dress codes, to create largely androgynous looks.
The clothes were not breathtaking or spectacular, but what I loved about them was how traditional elements were challenged and adapted, to be stylistic features. These included; contrasting colored piping up inside leg of trousers, hoods on shirts and tight fitting jersey tops, tailored all in one sleeveless suits for women and corseted back panels on men’s shirt. Especially in the case of menswear, it is very hard to produce an original and innovative collection, that is truly wearable, and I think Unconditional successfully achieved this.
Vicky Hassett
