Designer Directions Spring/Summer 2006
07-11-2005
Take autumns grown-up chic mood add a dash of free and easy tailoring and the feel for Spring/Summer 2006 starts to emerge. Many of last years warm weather trends have reappeared – albeit in a fresh 2006 way. Designers continue to play with volume from subtle puff sleeves to full-on billowing smock dresses. Here – balance is key, high waisted wide leg pants for instance, are combined with lean vest tops.
The fash pack simply adores the new tulip skirt which looks modern and very now. Featured in glossy shoots from Elle to Vogue – the tulip certainly looks great on a tall, lean model but will it sell in reality? I’m cautious, the reason why the gypsy skirt did so well last year was that it flattered and suited women across a wide spectrum of sizes and ages. For those wanting more of the same – the boho look has been watered down with a range of tiered skirts, broderie anglaise and pretty camisole tops.
Other trends evolving from last year include nautical, even more shorts and cropped jackets. Colours range from clean white, fresh green, washed out pastels and nudes to dark autumnal shades such as dark chocolate, slate grey and black. Waists continue to be cinched with belts, bows and ribbons, while flesh flashing remains off-limits. Demure and elegant – even the likes of Versace has calmed down with those revealing cuts and slashes. Legs, however, did get a bit of exposure with a handful of designers raising the hemline up as well as the waistline. All in all it’s holiday chic in a range of luxurious top-notch fabrics.
Key Silhouettes Spring/Summer 2006:
A strong season for the frock with many designers such as Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein and Chloe opting for the dress-and-go look.
Dresses: Empire line, A-line, shirt dresses, halterneck, baby doll, trapeze, smock, shift, strapless, wrap, Grecian goddess, prom & floor length evening gowns. {mosimage}
Skirts: Pencil, A-line, tulip, tiered, puff-ball & mini.
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Tops: Blouses with puff sleeves, wrap tops, fitted knits, vests, U-neck tops, tunics, kimono sleeve, bustiers, camisoles & cobwebby knits.
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Trousers: Cropped, rolled-up, knickerbockers, lean cut, high-waisted, wide leg, cigarette pants & leggings – as a layering piece.
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Shorts: Knee length tailored, tiny short shorts, cuffed & cut-off denims.
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Jackets/Coats: Trench – knee-length and cropped, washed leather jackets, collarless overcoats, waistcoats, boleros, fitted and swingy cropped jackets.
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Fabrics: Chiffon, silk, linen, brocade, taffeta, broderie anglaise, organza, lace, cotton, denim & soft paper thin leather
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Colours: White – & lots of it, ice cream pastels, mink, nude shades, blush pink, oatmeal, biscuit, terracotta, gold, hot red, fresh green, lilac, teal, slate grey, chocolate, navy & black.
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Pattern: Oversize and graphic, florals, pinstripes, polka dots, gingham, checks & stripes.
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Construction Details: Panelling, draping, pin-tucks, puff sleeves, asymmetric hemlines, appliqués, smocking, cape sleeves, ruffles, bows, bracelet sleeves & ribbon trims.
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Shoes: 2006 looks like another strong season for the wedge heel, particularly retro cork, wooden and rope styles. Other key womenswear designs include: flat strappy caliga style sandals as seen at Dolce & Gabbana, platforms, almond toe ballet pumps and in keeping with the grown-up mood – smart sling-backs and peep-toe heels.
Waist Details: Belts are set to do extremely well next spring season. Practically every designer show included belts, from skinny rouleau tie belts to wide cummerbunds. Focusing on the waist key belt styles include: classic vintage leather, animal skin, bow tie sashes and wide square buckle versions.
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Accessories: Designer bags included lots of natural leather slouchy styles in practical shoulder, satchel and tote shapes. Details incorporated buckles, frills, grommets, zips, chains and tassels. Metallics have toned down into muted shiny hues of oyster, pale gold and bronze, while colourful printed options use retro bold florals in green, turquoise, orange and sugar pink shades.
And the Rest: As for the latest in shades then check out D&G’s white rimmed retro pair, elsewhere sunglasses remain on the vintage trail but seem to have downsized for the new season. Hats arrived slouchy and knitted at Burberry, while other designers went for summery straw bergere, panama and trilby styles. For more dressy occasions sculptural fascinators and wide-brim feathered hats rule the day. While jewellery is brought up-to-date by toning down last years ethnic styles and bringing in classic pendant shapes, pearls, decorative discs and simple chains.
By JoJo Iles www.fashionpr.co.uk