Now On: Diana, Princess of Wales by Mario Testino
28-11-2005
From rags to riches Mario Testino had to seriously graft to get where he is today. From his birthplace in
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Known for his super-slick ad campaigns and his glossy editorial spreads, Testino’s style combines beauty and luxury with a touch of reality. His shoot with the late Princess of Wales for Vanity Fair got attention galore – here was the Princess as we had never seen her before. She may have been wearing a range of evening gowns created by the likes of Catherine Walker, Bruce Oldfield, Hachi and Victor Edelstein but her expression and poise was candid and relaxed.
{mosimage}Speaking to Sue Lawley on Desert Island Discs, Radio 4, Testino said: “It’s funny – when the pictures came out, people said to me, ‘My God, you’ve changed her,’ and I thought, I didn’t do that much…I don’t like falseness, I like reality. I think in an unconscious way, I just wanted to feel that whoever would see the pictures would feel that they were with her.”
{mosimage}One part of being a great portrait or fashion photographer that many forget is having that essential rapport with the sitter/model. Testino excels in this area making those in his lens relax and pose with ease. He mentions this in his interview with Lawley: “I said to her (Diana), ‘It’s really difficult for me to call you Ma’am because I call my mother Ma’am and you’re younger than me!’ And she said, ‘Oh don’t worry, just call me Diana,’ which already broke the ice. We started chatting and I said, ‘Let’s do it as if we’re just having a conversation, the two of us, on the sofa.’ And that’s how I started photographing her.”
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The images have an incredibly strong presence; blown-up to huge proportions for the exhibition you feel the eyes of Diana all around you. A number of photographs on display appeared in the July 1997 edition of Vanity Fair while others are being shown for the first time. United with the images are nine of Diana’s auctioned-off gowns, including four which were worn during the photo-shoot. Set appropriately in
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{mosimage} A book also accompanies the show – Taschen, 144 pages, GBP 19.99/ USD 39.99. Features include: Foreword by Graydon Carter, editor of Vanity Fair, introduction by Meredith Etherington-Smith, who played a major role in arranging the sitting in 1997 and an interview with Mario Testino conducted by Hamish Bowles.
By JoJo Iles