Vikky Hassett reporting live from LFW
17-02-2006
Day One
Tuesday 14th February
Paul Costelloe
The first date scheduled in my London catwalk diary was Paul Costelloe. So what did one of the most established names in British fashion have to offer us in his forthcoming autumn/winter collection? Did I leave the show enthralled by a exceptionally innovative and inspiring collection? Well no. But what Costelloe did achieve was an extremely wearable and skillfully tailored collection.
Sensitive hints of leather and wool highlights Costelloe’s appreciation of natural fabric. Traditional check and plaid which have become trademarks of his designs dominated the collection. Pencil skirts falling into varying hemlines were teemed with beautifully paneled tailored jackets. Large belts worn around the waist continues this seasons pronunciation of the sumptuously feminine silhouette.
The colour palette was reminiscent of an autumn’s day; chocolate brown, auburn and amber were complemented with more neutral shades of grey, white, black and beige.
If classic sophistication is your aspired look for next season then Costelloe is the man to deliver it.
Julien Macdonald
I have to admit to being ridiculously excited about this years Valentines day. Red roses, slushy sentiments and the man of my dreams…no thank you. This year I was spending Valentines Day with the one true love in my life; fashion. Armed with the most coveted ticket in the London Fashion Week diary, Julien Macdonald did not disappoint in presenting a lavishly sexy and glamorous show, drenched in copious amounts of Swaovski crystals.
Set in the exquisite Freemasons hall, this inspiring choice of location amplified the infectious excitement that already filled the air. Macdonald’s collection captured the glamour and vivacity of fashion, injecting this passion into his audience. It is this energy that is noticeably absent from much of the shows at London Fashion Week.
Socialite Paris Hilton kicked off the show, strutting out in a pewter coloured taffeta prom dress. Erin O’Connor, Jasmine Guinness and Elizabeth Jagger masterfully glided down the catwalk in long silks which fell gracefully into peacock feather hems, corseted gowns, glitter plaid trouser suits, pencil skirts and shift dresses, all boasting beautifully detailed crystal embroidery and sequined fringing.
Macdonald caused controversy yet again with his prominent use of fur. Chinchilla, Russian sable and mink pelts were constructed into luxurious over coats and used as trimming.
His infamous backless dresses made an appearance and were as always enchantingly seductive. Macdonald understands women; his garments uncompromisingly sculpt every contour of the female form, the ultimate embodiment of sexuality.
As a finale, glitter balls on the ceiling exploded like fireworks, cascading over Macdonald and his models. No one does glamour like Macdonald.
If this is what autumn/winter 06-07 fashion has in store for me then I wait in excited anticipation.
Day Two
Wednesday 15th February
Manish Arora
Manish like Macdonald presented a collection that proved autumn/winter fashion need not be all trench coats and trousers. Black and white made way for a whole more vibrant colour palette; electric blue, lime green, cerise and shocking pink are the most glamorous colours to be seen in this forthcoming autumn/winter.
Fashion is about luxury, it allows us to immerse ourselves in the fantasies that it weaves. Manish’s collection embraces this passion, each garment opulently chic and glamorous. Without doubt Manish Arora is the strongest designer of this season.
Manish’s garments signify a fusion of traditional Indian fabrics and ethnic detailing, which are interpreted into contemporary silhouettes and wearable garments, to create a unique and eclectic collection which will no doubt ensure Manish’s growing success in the global market.
His signature knee length circular skirts dominated the collection, along with some chic empire line dresses. Luxurious cashmere, jacquard, silks and silk velvets were intricately decorated with brocade, embroidery and Swarovski crystals.
Essentially his garments are simple pieces in terms of silhouette and construction yet it is his inimitable vision for the relationship between colour and detailing which makes for a truly unique and inspiring collection.
Christmas, hearts, angels, forests, plants, animals and mountains were detailed in the garments through embroidery and tapestry; bearing relation to his concept for combining strong symbolic images with motifs of ethnic significance, including Sadhus meditating, Indian posters and Mughal motifs.
His final piece was a truly breathtaking silk floor skimming dress, intricately encrusted with Swarovski crystals which depicted iconic London; The Tower of London, Big Ben, the Millennium Wheel and Beefeaters, complete with a Union Jack band above the bust line. It was a strikingly conclusive remark of Manish’s continued and utterly successful efforts to fuse Indian and global cultures.
This inspirational collection left me so much in awe that I was seen soon after manically running to Harrods to splendor in the luxury of his garments a while longer. He is not just creating fashion but works of art.
Ghost
Yet again Ghost delivered an ultra feminine collection that successfully interpreted the aspirations of its female consumer.
Wide high waist trousers were teemed with Victorian style delicate high neck sheer blouses. The formality implied by the hourglass silhouette and the accentuated waist was complemented by the fluidity of the fabric and softness of the colour palette, to form gentle timeless feminine lines.
The colour palette was largely neutral; black, beige and white dominated the collection, with modest splashes of peach, lemon and chocolate brown.
Initially perplexed by the cone shaped brassieres (think Madonna in her Like a Virgin days), the rigid contours created by its shape beautifully contrasted with the gentle lines of the garments, creating a sexy edge to the collection.
By Vikky Hassett
