My London Fashion Week by Sarah Joyce

 

 

London fashion week kicked off at the natural history museum last Monday, providing the opportunity for the hottest new talents to show alongside the established names. After a seemingly sedate few seasons, there are signs that London fashion week has got its buzz back with even the most powerful woman in fashion, Anna Wintour making an appearance after a four-year absence.

 

This is my debut at London fashion week and what a debut I am having- the champaign, the celebrity spotting, the after show parties and the clothes aren’t bad either. Full of anticipation and excitement- I have not been disappointed. London is ablaze with promise and potential and while often viewed as the little sister to Paris and Milan fashion weeks London has much to offer, after all where else do the established and the up-and-comers meet with such creative results. Here is a round up of a handful of shows that excited and inspired.  

 

 

Michiko Koshino

My London fashion week kicked off in style with a ticket for the Michiko Koshino show and it did not disappoint. Known for her eclectic mix of fabrics and styles, Koshino raised the game with gorgeous bone-hugging trousers and deconstructed tops set off by huge sculptural shoulder pieces in hounds tooth check, quilted cotton or bright red fur.  Koshino played heavily with proportion, teaming 40’s style kick-pleat pencil skirts and elongated drainpipe trousers with elaborate blouses with cascading ruffles and finished off with space-age berets.  Koshino’s street style has no doubt matured, but was present in baggy velvet hooded dresses in primary colour contemporary prints. Velvet corsets and poufs added a playful touch to the Edwardian feeling, while cobweb wool dresses cast a gothic mood. 

 

Manish Arora

After a masterly debut at last seasons London fashion week, Arora has received huge amount of press and been dubbed the ‘Indian Matthew Williamson’. His eclectic Autumn Winter 2006/2007 brightened London fashion week with his uncanny use of colours. Models with faces emblazoned with bindis and sequins emerged from the Nordic snowdrift catwalk in luxurious fabrics like cashmere, jacquard, silk and velvets.  Tired dresses in shocking pink and vibrant turquoise, Arora’s signature circular skirt, empire line dresses, fitted jackets, capes and simple sweaters all in luscious purples, greens and reds appeared on the catwalk. Arora’s simple dollhouse shapes featured folkloric and childlike references with hearts, angles, animals and forest appliqués and embroidery. Staying true to this roots the collection also featured Mughal motifs. The final look paid homage to Arora’s new home with a bandeau dress covered in sequinned union jacks, underground signs, big Ben and the London eye.

 

Avshalom Gur

There was much attention surrounding the debut collection of Central St Martin’s graduate Avshalom Gur at the Royal Academy of Art, The Autumn Winter 2006/007 collection saw the use of transparent hand dyed and printed chiffons, delicate silks in harmony with rough tattered cottons and lavish wrap arounds featuring hand carved onyx and brass jewellery. Long floating evening dresses, knitted jumpers and tailored trousers in different shades of black are off set by bold yellows and ripe corals. Traditional patchwork techniques appeared on soft leather, cotton, silk and cashmere, while prints had a graphic geometric and abstract feel. The contrast of fabric and texture defined the collection and created unmistakable character.

 

Aganovich and Yung

While the caged pigeons and bird music were slightly off putting, Aganovich and Yung produced a simple yet mature collection for Autumn Winter 2006/2007. The collection consisted of tailored pieces with a key emphasis on the waist. Silks, wool and velvets in black, navy and white were used to add a sophisticated mood to the collection. Pencil skirts were teamed with fitted jackets and high collared shirts that featured bow fastenings.

 

Ghost

According to the Autumn Winter 2006/2007 Ghost collection long is back for day and for evening. Delicate embroidery featured on long bias cut dresses, while tiny puff sleeved jackets were belted over long sweeping skirts in hushed tones of cocoa and coal. The silhouette and mood had echoes of Edwardian ladies with neck lines kept high and sleeves to wrist length, though the use of velvet, viscose and lace, splashes of plum and red and the lean silhouette meant it was far from prim. A desirable collection that added a healthy dose of  wearability, practicality and realism to London fashion week, although I suspect most will give the pointy bras worn by the models a miss.

 

Bora Aksu

Turkish born Central Saint Martins graduate Bora Aksu is renowned for his use of texture rather than elaborate decoration; fluid layers of bias-cut silk, chiffon and heavy cottons accented with leather or crocheted knit or lace. For autumn winter 2006/2007 Aksu explores the connection between fragility and strengths. Contrasting the female silhouette with traditional tailoring the collection mixed the more overtly masculine elements of leather, tweed, velvet and wool, with feminine chiffon, silk tulle and jersey. Models appeared on the catwalk in heavy boots decorated with knitted pieces. Tapered trousers and full skirts were teamed with deconstructed capes, blouses and waistcoats. The palette this season came from nature with earthy tones, pale creams and gentle pastel shades.

 

So what is there to say about my first London Fashion Week?  There is a definite buzz and energy surrounding London’s fashion scene with some very strong new names to look out for.  Unlike other fashion weeks, London is a colourful and diverse event that has the ability to bring both new and established designers together, which is what makes London fashion week such an interesting mix.

 

Sarah Joyce